Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

damn man 15.4 i was expecting much quicker :(

Was his first time at the strip, plus his tyres were fairly bald so there's a lot of ways to improve. Video's should be up tomorrow guys.

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys, results are in and i have to say sorry as you won't be too impressed!

The Corolla(88kw bigport) ran 16.8 sec with ECU problems

The Cammed SSS did a PB of 15.449 @ 88mph (2.5 60ft)

My 300ZX did 14.58 @ 95mph (2.279 60ft)

decent tyres (and launch) would see it into the 14 second bracket. bit suprised at the MPH as well. would be interesting to know what power the SSS is putting out. that may explain a few things.

decent tyres (and launch) would see it into the 14 second bracket. bit suprised at the MPH as well. would be interesting to know what power the SSS is putting out. that may explain a few things.

My mistake, he ran 15.438 as his best.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aX32FSHnAkY

DSC03392.jpg

DSC03386.jpg

DSC03387.jpg

DSC03379.jpg

DSC03380.jpg

DSC03382.jpg

DSC03384.jpg

Yeah GTiR Bonnet, he's going back after he gets his camgears installed and dialled in. I'll be back after i have NIStune aswell, on both my best runs i was on the rev limiter before the finish line so i think the car has a fair bit more to give. I'm aiming for 14.2's with the car all motor.

Edited by Super Drager

don't overestimate how much bouncing on the limiter will slow you down. not saying you won't get there with a tune, but you are probably only losing 1mph, maybe 2. in most cases the speed will still increase slightly even while still on the limiter.

Well, it starts hitting the limiter when i can see the time boards infront of me. On my 14.6 run i did a better 2.22 60' but i think the limiter may have engaged earlier down the track due to getting down the track quicker which may have killed my end time. Also my trap speeds ranged from 95-97mph sitting on the limiter, all with similar 60's. I have the launch nailed(well i dont think i'll get any better on the crap tyres i have), i just need a few hundred more RPM.....or to fix my 4th gear synchro lol. The first 3 taps on the limiter are soft, after that its like you are hitting a brick wall.

I'll post up some times

14.585 @ 94.9mph - 2.27 60' - 3rd gear limiter

14.659 @ 97.6mph - 2.22 60' - 3rd gear limiter

14.827 @ 95mph - 2.29 60' - selected 4th

Edited by Super Drager

i think you will find that you are pretty much at the limit of what you can do without more serious power upgrades. raising the rev limit won't do much unless you can have your car still make decent power at that rpm. a lot of cars power sort of falls off a cliff very quickly once you get up in the revs, so you don't see any gains. i think you will need to start grabbing 4th gear, possibly a bit earlier than you may initially thought was ideal. when i did the 14.8 in my magna that was crossing the line at about 93mph in 4th gear (was maxing out 3rd well before the line)

the other option is to go up a profile size in your tyres. this will alter your final drive ratio by a small amount, increasing your top speed by a fraction. it will affect your acceleration a little bit though (bugger all difference though).

i think you will find that you are pretty much at the limit of what you can do without more serious power upgrades. raising the rev limit won't do much unless you can have your car still make decent power at that rpm. a lot of cars power sort of falls off a cliff very quickly once you get up in the revs, so you don't see any gains. i think you will need to start grabbing 4th gear, possibly a bit earlier than you may initially thought was ideal. when i did the 14.8 in my magna that was crossing the line at about 93mph in 4th gear (was maxing out 3rd well before the line)

the other option is to go up a profile size in your tyres. this will alter your final drive ratio by a small amount, increasing your top speed by a fraction. it will affect your acceleration a little bit though (bugger all difference though).

When i get it tuned, if i raise the rev limit to 7500 would a set of exhaust side camgears benefit me? I'm going to get the gearbox oil changed to redline as it was a few months ago, didn't have crunching problems then. Not going to do anything to it that can't be transferred over to a boosted motor.

Edited by Super Drager

I'm going to add in that if I were a P Plater, and I wanted to drag, I'd be looking at the EF range of XR6 falcons...

I've seen one dead stock, and it ran mid 14 out of the box... Nothing done at all...

As for the FG XR6, I honestly think they're "slow", but then again, I went and bought the FG XR6T instead... Although, even it feels slow, it's just amazing watching the speedo fly up so quickly...

When i get it tuned, if i raise the rev limit to 7500 would a set of exhaust side camgears benefit me? I'm going to get the gearbox oil changed to redline as it was a few months ago, didn't have crunching problems then. Not going to do anything to it that can't be transferred over to a boosted motor.

I'd be looking at diff gears. Especially if it isn't a daily driver and is more a weekender/WSID Warrior. Go to a much shorter diff, re learn the launch on shorter diff, and use more of 4th gear. There will be many gains to be had here.

I'm going to add in that if I were a P Plater, and I wanted to drag, I'd be looking at the EF range of XR6 falcons...

I've seen one dead stock, and it ran mid 14 out of the box... Nothing done at all...

As for the FG XR6, I honestly think they're "slow", but then again, I went and bought the FG XR6T instead... Although, even it feels slow, it's just amazing watching the speedo fly up so quickly...

i felt the same thing when i went in a mates BA xr6t with a mild tune. doesn't have that lag that gives you the impression of speed when the boost comes on. you just put your foot down the all of a sudden the scenery is going by much faster. i also got the impression that there was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay more potential in the motor. it just felt really lazy, unlike my 180sx and r33 that felt like they were working hard reasonably hard, even when mildly stock.

I'd be looking at diff gears. Especially if it isn't a daily driver and is more a weekender/WSID Warrior. Go to a much shorter diff, re learn the launch on shorter diff, and use more of 4th gear. There will be many gains to be had here.

yeah will just have to get used to getting heaps more wheelspin off the line. when i ran the magna at the drags i had low profile 15" tyres (205/50/15 vs the stock size 205/65/15) and wheelspin was shocking. even when grabbing second gear. that is part of the reason why i was crossing the line well into 4th gear. speedo was showing about 170kmh, but trap speed was only around 93mph

I'm going to add in that if I were a P Plater, and I wanted to drag, I'd be looking at the EF range of XR6 falcons...

I've seen one dead stock, and it ran mid 14 out of the box... Nothing done at all...

As for the FG XR6, I honestly think they're "slow", but then again, I went and bought the FG XR6T instead... Although, even it feels slow, it's just amazing watching the speedo fly up so quickly...

That's funny because my mates EF XR6 with a fair bit of work done does 15's lol, also a stock FG that comes to WSID does 14.8 sec out of the box. Not doing diff changes or anything like that, i'm going to look on ebay for some 2nd hand Mickey thompson ET streets and get my NIStune done....

Edited by Super Drager

for a stock EF xr6 to get into the 14's it would need super sticky tyres. my guess is that it wasn't stock. having said that, if it had had a headgasket replaced in the past and had the head shaved (which usually happens) then it would have a slight compression increase resulting in more power. my theory is that that's why some skylines seem to be able to make 200kw on mild mods easier than others.

i felt the same thing when i went in a mates BA xr6t with a mild tune. doesn't have that lag that gives you the impression of speed when the boost comes on. you just put your foot down the all of a sudden the scenery is going by much faster. i also got the impression that there was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay more potential in the motor. it just felt really lazy, unlike my 180sx and r33 that felt like they were working hard reasonably hard, even when mildly stock.

yeah will just have to get used to getting heaps more wheelspin off the line. when i ran the magna at the drags i had low profile 15" tyres (205/50/15 vs the stock size 205/65/15) and wheelspin was shocking. even when grabbing second gear. that is part of the reason why i was crossing the line well into 4th gear. speedo was showing about 170kmh, but trap speed was only around 93mph

Yep, just confirmed, BA/BF XR6 is SLOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW compared to the FG XR6T... LOL

And yeah, they do feel like they've got a lot more to give, the FG spools up even sooner then that BA/BF by using an even smaller front!

I've been doing ALOT of reading on the XR6T, and some very simple things net a BIG increase in 1/4 mile time, and that's the removal of torque management, and getting rid of the flat torque curve they have...

That and on the FG turn the OverBoost (Setup by ford for use on the roll for upto 5 seconds to aid overtaking) on all the time... (Adds 10% more boost)

But, back to the NAs... Big Sticky tyres and a HUGE clutch dump with a good LSD/locked diff will get you off the line, but, I'd be running drag radials if I was you, gives a bit of flex and will take *some* stress off the driveline...

I tried to find the place I was reading about the EF falcon time, but it was so long ago I can't find the thread on another forum

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...