Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people so my r32 got a new sticker the other week so i decided perfect time to start the build. car is going to be used for daily duties and occasional track events. i am doing all the work myself and with friends.

my car -

396490_299477623422641_100000812181266_764095_423422581_n.jpg

my engine -

393409_299481486755588_100000812181266_764117_1285756584_n.jpg

397605_299480760088994_100000812181266_764112_577361097_n.jpg

398604_299482360088834_100000812181266_764120_1993494342_n.jpg

398725_299482926755444_100000812181266_764122_2103290292_n.jpg

my tools-

387867_296249900412080_100000812181266_752870_1642759038_n.jpg

atm i am just tidying things up and cleaning the metal up. then going to do the 100k service. then start buying and fitting new parts.

future mods to come-

Garret 3076r

external wastegate

custom screamer/dump pipe

6boost low mount manifold

hks adjustable cam gears

hks timing belt

256 poncams

greddy front facing plenum

nismo mounts

bigger injectors

hks rail

bigger fpr if needed

splitfire coils

haltech 1000 ecu

haltech race dash

mechanical diff

if you have any advice for planned mods or want to suggest different mods feel free to post... only if you know what you are talking about as i dont have the time nor want your advice if you have not tried it before.

as more money is available for parts and more work gets done i will update.

nut.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387150-~nutzos-gts4-rb25neo-build~/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

just done water pump/timing belt/ exhaust cam gear/oil filter mount/rocker covers today, took the photos before the rocker covers and oil filter mount were back on.

430989_331191510251252_100000812181266_831178_2021890855_n.jpg

429499_331191660251237_100000812181266_831179_1160347292_n.jpg

406417_331191746917895_100000812181266_831180_632969127_n.jpg

i am now planning on using all the stock manifolds, turbo, ecu, injectors just so i can get the car rolling and regoed asap. then collect all the mods and install them in one go and then tune it. other wise the car wont be ready for a year. so all i need now is the injector o rings which work is getting in for me next week, a blue relay, oil & fuel filter. chuck it all back together, remove the rb20, swap front diff centres, re-condish the front half shafts, drop in the 25 then wire the cluster :@ i have also just purchased a second hand set of light weight enkei rims 12 spoke 100% condition for a great price.

well i have the starndard gts4 @ 4.311 rear centre in so i need to match that, think i will just swap the rb20 front centre into the rb25

if i am incorrect somebody please let me know.

which is what I am doing.

my new Jland wheels. :) 17'x9' unsure of the offset, hoping they will bolt up without any issues. they are made for a GTR so i may need spacers... can anyone could confirm the model?

if they are GTR then you may have trouble at the rear. I have issues with the BBS 17s I used on mine. they hit the guard.

i made a good start to getting the motor out today, unbolted the ecu and removed the engine and dash loom plugs, dropped the tail shaft, the clutch slave, the bell housing bolts underneath, the starter, drained the front diff oil. unbolted the left front half shaft, had to leave the front tailshaft as i need some thinner spanners to get onto it, so i will do that tomorrow. removed airbox & all the piping, removed the viscous fan, drained the coolant & removed the radiator and shroud, unbolted and moved p/s pump and a/ compressor to the side, removed the belts, unhooked the throttle cable and moved it aside, loosened the fuel lines to rail so there ready to come off when the motors ready to come out. tomorrow will get a jack under the gearbox and drop the crossmember, lower the box so i can get the top bell housing bolts out, unhook the heater hoses, remove both front halfshafts, drop the k frame bolts a little to get some clearance on the front diff then unbolt the engine mounts and out she will come, hopefully biggrin.png

i am not removing the gearbox as i font want to bleed the attessa, i have done a nismo fork pivot previosly when i did the clutch so will just regrease the input and new spiggot in the crank and solid gearbox mount and that will be fine.

i also test fit the RPF1s on the front and they foul the calipers and the piece between upper and lower control arm so will definitely need some spacers... does anybody know what size spacers i will need to make the RPF1s fit?

  • 2 weeks later...

Wouldnt it be easier to swap the sumps, then you dont have to reshim the diff to get the clearances right.

As far as turbo choice, a gt30 doesnt need an external gate, as long as you get a genuine garrett exhaust housing, the internal gate is fine.

i was thinking its gonna be harder than people have said and i have reshimmed diffs before at tafe but after looking at the setup i couldn't see the shim so once i get the rb20 out i will look at swapping the sumps. i was hoping the car would be done at the end of the week but atm its more looking like the new motor will be in at the end of the week, with the wiring left to nut out.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...