Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I THINK the front was a 24mm adjustable and the rear a 20mm fixed? I'm not 100% sure as it was customer supplied but the front was an adjustable bar.

I personally like the idea of the (F) 27mm fixed and ® 22mm fixed if it was my personal street car.

I THINK the front was a 24mm adjustable and the rear a 20mm fixed? I'm not 100% sure as it was customer supplied but the front was an adjustable bar.

I personally like the idea of the (F) 27mm fixed and ® 22mm fixed if it was my personal street car.

The front would have been a 24mm; BNF24Z

The 27mm BNF27Z is recommended for motorsport only by Whiteline; it's a very big increase. I think on the street you'd probably end up with too much understeer; especially in the wet.

The feedback I have had from the 24mm bar is excellent

Thanks,

Not sure if I need it adjustable, though they seem to be the same price as non-adjustable.

Are these bars protected from corrosion?

The adjustment is very nice to have, you'll likely set and forget, but for no extra spend; it's certainly nice to be able to finetune to your own taste and to the behaviour of your coilovers.

I've delivered well over 60 sets of Whiteline bars to people on this forum, and I've never had a complaint about the quality. I've fitted several sets, and the fit has been excellent. I personally inspect everything prior to shipping, and I've never found a fault yet.

They are powdercoated in a Silver/ Blue metallic, and as long as you are careful when fitting, the powdercoat will provide excellent protection against corrosion. It is flexible, but will take a knock without chipping; like a painted bar will.

I notice you're UK based, so I can't help you with a Group Buy; but if you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a PM

Cheers, Dale.

Thanks for the input, if they're powder coated I will have no issues with corrosion.

Yes, I am UK based so not really an option for an Australian group buy.

So possibly 24mm front, 22mm rear.

I use the car mainly on the road, not on the track.

So no need for Motorsport-Type sway bars.

Also I want to maintain a somewhat comfortable overall experience, especially with the poor roads in the UK.

Thanks for the input, if they're powder coated I will have no issues with corrosion.

Yes, I am UK based so not really an option for an Australian group buy.

So possibly 24mm front, 22mm rear.

I use the car mainly on the road, not on the track.

So no need for Motorsport-Type sway bars.

Also I want to maintain a somewhat comfortable overall experience, especially with the poor roads in the UK.

Sounds like you have roads much like most of ours, you won't go wrong with those choices.thumbsup.gif

FWIW I have 24mm adjustable on the rear and 24mm fixed on the front, and I wouldn't have less stiff bars than that. Rears are set to the softer setting, not that it's hugely softer than the harder setting. Car is not tail happy, so I think it would be more understeery if I'd put the 22mm on the rear. This is an R32, which is what, 80(?) kg lighter than a 33. I'd recommend not getting a 22mm for the rear.

I hear you, but in the UK they have the usual potholes plus(to make matters worse)

Speed-Bumps and Speed-Tables.

Potholes are from mere neglect, but the Bumps/Tables are just evil ..

Often the local council is not in line with regulations and the Speed-Tables are way too high.

(You can tell by the impact markers of sorry oil pans)

That's why I don't want to lower my car much (have not decided on the right coil-overs yet)

I wonder where all the tax $$$ go ;)

As for the sway bars, I will see that I can find a distributor in the UK.

Good nite!

Speed humps and tables have no effect on sway bars, or more to the point, sway bars have no effect on the car's suspension when hitting a bump with both wheels at the same time, a la speed bumps and tables. And I wouldn't be choosing sway bars because of the presence or absence of potholes either. If there are potholes in a road, you probably won't be driving hard enough for stiffer sway bars to cause you to go off line anyway. Here in Australia we have many country roads which have a lot of broken bitumen, wrinkled bitumen and tree roots causing severe short pitch undulations in the surface. It is under these conditions that stiff suspension, and in particular stiff sway bars on top of stiff spring rates, can cause the car to be too jiggly to hold the road well. This because you often hit such an lump with only one wheel at a time. Despite this, I still vote for the 24mm adjustable rear bar as a better choice than the 22 fixed.

Thanks,

I was just elaborating on the pothole situation, had nothing to do at all with me buying swaybars.

And I hear you on 24mm....

Hitting one of these obstructions with just one wheel is always a pain..

So when choosing the new coil-overs I will take road conditions into consideration.

Any suggestions?

Speed humps and tables have no effect on sway bars, or more to the point, sway bars have no effect on the car's suspension when hitting a bump with both wheels at the same time, a la speed bumps and tables. And I wouldn't be choosing sway bars because of the presence or absence of potholes either. If there are potholes in a road, you probably won't be driving hard enough for stiffer sway bars to cause you to go off line anyway. Here in Australia we have many country roads which have a lot of broken bitumen, wrinkled bitumen and tree roots causing severe short pitch undulations in the surface. It is under these conditions that stiff suspension, and in particular stiff sway bars on top of stiff spring rates, can cause the car to be too jiggly to hold the road well. This because you often hit such an lump with only one wheel at a time. Despite this, I still vote for the 24mm adjustable rear bar as a better choice than the 22 fixed.

Edited by Torques

Hi,

I don't know ...

And what are HD-Links anyway?

:)

I just started to look at my car's suspension, so not familiar with all aspects of it.

(I did the engine, so now suspension)

Do the kits come with the option of HD Links?

If so, get them.

I did that with the Whiteline RSB on my Subaru Forester - greater reassurance.

Do the kits come with the option of HD Links?

If so, get them.

I did that with the Whiteline RSB on my Subaru Forester - greater reassurance.

Hi Terry, they are definitely a worthwhile upgrade,

You'd be going from this; post-61153-0-51063500-1326575041_thumb.jpg

To these; KLC108.jpgtn_KLC109.jpg

No rubbers to wear out and get squeaky, miles more responsive, it's win all round.:thumbsup: They're completely service free and quiet as a mouse. Even on OEM swaybars they made a difference on my car, with Whiteline bars even better.

I also happen to do killer prices on these.:whistling:

Hi there,

Hmmm .. that looks interesting, must be worlds apart from the standard linkage.

Geez it looks already like one of these small jobs you do on your car and

then your find yourself replacing 90% of the suspension while 'at it' ;)

Hi Terry, they are definitely a worthwhile upgrade,

You'd be going from this; post-61153-0-51063500-1326575041_thumb.jpg

To these; KLC108.jpgtn_KLC109.jpg

No rubbers to wear out and get squeaky, miles more responsive, it's win all round.:thumbsup: They're completely service free and quiet as a mouse. Even on OEM swaybars they made a difference on my car, with Whiteline bars even better.

I also happen to do killer prices on these.:whistling:

Hi there,

Hmmm .. that looks interesting, must be worlds apart from the standard linkage.

Geez it looks already like one of these small jobs you do on your car and

then your find yourself replacing 90% of the suspension while 'at it' ;)

Lol, I see you've done this before...whistling.gif

Once you have the Whiteline bars, this is always something you can add at a later date.thumbsup.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
×
×
  • Create New...