Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i ws just on the hypergear website and they start rebuilds at around 400 and thats all bearing and gaskets and thats if they dont need to replace any broken parts

is that a good price or does someone do it better then 400

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yea thats what i thought and i can find a few bolt on ones off ebay for 400 but i really dont know the item and im unsure of the quality and reliability of it and how much to you think a hypergear fi-flow turbo would cost because im very keen to upgread and i wouldnt mind a nice 250kw or more but its my day to day car and not have the money to upgrade the injectors ecu afm and turbo at this point but if its almost the same price to hi-flow it i may aswell do that

also can i run a hiflowed turbo with stock injectors ecu and fuel put and afm and just run stock boost??

Or for a little bit more you can get an atr43 to suit 250kw or 300 depending on your goals. I've got my atr43 ss1 running 7psi so there isn't much reason you can't modify slowly, just be very careful about what you do in what order, I cracked a piston by taking too long to get it all tuned. But I did make 230kw with a cracked piston.

Im still pretty new on this site, let me answer this one lol

Option 1 - upgraded turbo = Tune, do u have a aftermarket ecu, if not ur up for about $5000+ (new turbo, ecu and tune)

How'd i do ?

You failed miserably unfortunately..

No way a new turbo, ecu + tune would cost this much.

Maybe if you went top of the line everything which he doesn't want to do.

Turbo = $900-1000

ECU = $600 - $1600

Tune = $500 - $800

Total = $3400 for something like

Power FC, 250-270kw hypergear turbo, tune

Total = $2000 for something like

Nistune ECU, Hypergear turbo 230kw + tune = 220kw max with stock injectors

Edited by Kasko

You failed miserably unfortunately..

No way a new turbo, ecu + tune would cost this much.

Maybe if you went top of the line everything which he doesn't want to do.

Turbo = $900-1000

ECU = $600 - $1600

Tune = $500 - $800

Total = $3400 for something like

Power FC, 250-270kw hypergear turbo, tune

Total = $2000 for something like

Nistune ECU, Hypergear turbo 230kw + tune = 220kw max with stock injectors

I dont see that i did, $1500 isnt much. If i was to be taking the next step, id be spending a lil more than $1000 on a new turbo

The HG turbo needs to magic itself onto the car for it to only cost $800-1000.

Its the hidden extras, like intake pipes, exhaust mods, injectors, AFM's, oil/water lines, stud replacement etc that some turbos require that is a hidden cost to upgrading.

Buying the parts is the easy part.

Everything costs money unless you bolt a stock one on. Plus good turbos can be had from 750 (kando) then your usual mods same as hypergear. Also is there oil in the dump all turbos have some shaft play no matter how new.

Which HG turbo? A simple rebuild/hiflow yes other HG turbos no. Don't forget labour.

Getting back to the OP I am still not convinced his turbo has anything wrong with it since it still makes boost so the best thing is to correctly diagnose what is happening before buying any parts.

ps. my daily driver has had a whole lot more than $1k spent on turbos over the years...like most SAU'ers.

Which HG turbo? A simple rebuild/hiflow yes other HG turbos no. Don't forget labour.

Getting back to the OP I am still not convinced his turbo has anything wrong with it since it still makes boost so the best thing is to correctly diagnose what is happening before buying any parts.

ps. my daily driver has had a whole lot more than $1k spent on turbos over the years...like most SAU'ers.

^ my simple turbo replacement turned into a 10k rebuild pretty quickly lol.

quick question im looking at a really cheap r34 turbo with no nosie and no shaft play and lie $150 mates rates :) i was just wondering how much shit can it handle because im going to go the road of hiflowing my r33 turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...