Jump to content
SAU Community

Home Made Car Camps:)

Addicted2BoostR34

By Addicted2BoostR34,
in Tasmania

 Share

  

3 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Addicted2BoostR34 Proficient

Addicted2BoostR34

Posted
Posted

found this :) ill be trying to make a set ( all info pics by ms33)

  • tn_gallery_65014_3393_312052.jpg
  • Rank: RB20DET

  • user_add.png
  • email_open.png
  • picture.png

  • Posts:31
  • Joined:24-July 09
  • Car(s):R33 GTR with 400R bodykit
  • Real Name:Mike

Posted 29 November 2011 - 05:22 PM

I used this from the other forum for getting the angle correct, mine from the wheel to the front of the bumper is 32" unlike his 25".

Basically, measure the height from the front bumper to the ground then the distance from the wheel to the front of the bumper. Mine is 25" from wheel to front, and height was 5-5.5", used 5" for safety. So, with these figures you know the angle (for ramps) which is 10.7 degrees. But you know the front must travel at least 25", before hitting anything over 5". Each step is 13" long, and the height is 1.75".

Based on 1.75" per step, I know 2 steps =3.5", but 3 would be 5.25". So based on the height from my bumper to the ground of 5", I know that the 3rd step must be over 25" away from the 1st.

In theory top one could be shorter and if the height was 5.5" then i could climb 3 steps every 25", instead of 2. And the step could be 12.5" instead of 13". Therefore the ramps overall can be shorter. But I just played safe (ground wasn’t exactly even at measurement).

Conclude for shorter ramps: stopper = 1.5" long, top step = 14", next step = 26.5", next step = 39". Next step (could be final step if only require just over 7" in height, I found this sufficient) 51.5", if not next step is 64". Each platform has 12.5".

And the shopping list:

I bought 3 lengths of 47mm x 250mm x 4.8mtrs of sawn wood from Covers.

1st length 2 x 1380mm and 2 x 920mm

2nd length 2 x 2300mm

3rd length 2 x 1840mm and 2 x 460mm

They will cut all this for you.

That'll give you the 10 lengths you need to make the 2 ramps.

And a box of 10 x 75mm screws.

This is all assuming you have at least 5" clearance from your front spoiler to the ground. If less you'll have to re-calculate.

Hope this helps. icon_thumright.gif

26112011523.jpg27112011526.jpg27112011527.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388100-home-made-car-camps/
Share on other sites
trustr32 Rising Star

trustr32

Posted
Posted

Will you get the timber for nothing? If you don't it will cost an arm & leg for that much timber and it will weigh a tonne. :blush:

Steel ones are cheap and don't weigh that much. Just my thoughts :D

I just bought 200x75mm sleepers and cut them on the correct angle and screwed them together with bugle screws. Cost is f**k all you only need them 3-4 sleepers thick I'll take a few photo's of mine on sunday. (they are fairly heavy though when they're still green but with the steel ramps they aren't angled enough if your cars real low.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...