Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys my car seems to have come across a 'common problem' with the v35 coupe but is a little different and sounds more serious then others..

anyway i started the car this morning only to notice these problems

- VDC, SLIP, AT CHECK all lights on

- No speedo or tacho

- No indicator arrows blinking (although indicators were actually working)

- No wipers (they would come on some times)

- sluggish and rough changing gears

- Headlights were flickering and flashing even when they were switched off.

- Stereo and a/c working fine, seats, mirrors all working fine?

Now the battery seems fine..

however I was driving through some quite heavy rain last night on the highway.. could this be an issue?

I've also read that this sometimes happen when break pads need replacing.. are they easy to check how much pad is left? if so whats involved?

would really love some help/advice asap as the car was supposed to be put on the market this week!

thanks in advance guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388411-electrical-issues-v35-coupe/
Share on other sites

I can't see how worn brake pads can cause this..??

Sounds more like a power related issue.. possibly bad ground points.. Sorry, I don't have a difinitive answer for you.

fuse boxes.

one in the drivers kick panel, one in front of the battery, and one behind the battery. youll need to take off the cover and get the battery out to get to it. there are a LOT of fuses in there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks mate, couldn't find in VIC, ended up ordering one from NSW, getting rwc to get new plates and registration done.
    • Before all the EFR fan boys come in, have a look at: https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-ii-g30-825-58mm/ It also comes in a T4 1.06 divided housing. I would dare say if you want response & also decent power, this thing would chop.   AND apologies, just re-read your post, you've already bought the turbo... whatever you do, make sure you stick with divided housing and proper twin scroll manifold.
    • People have got to stop doing that. ShatGPT is not a search engine. It is a hallucination factory.   I also would recommend the 1.05. The .83 will "work" for you , in that it will be more responsive, but I think you'll find that it won't be anywhere near as good running it out to 8000rpm as the big housing will be.
    • Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it" all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's. Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds. Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this. in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight. lKXLqpd - Imgur.mp4   Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home  
    • 1.05 you’ve gotta let it breath 
×
×
  • Create New...