Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, as the title states... I NOW have a front bar that has been butchered by an unprofessional clown and i now need options to repair it....

The car is an R34 GTT and it has the standard front bar which i wish to retain.

Easiest fix is to get a new one and cut it correctly but at the moment i do not have the cash to do so and figured there are plenty of clever guys on SAU that may have a solution.

Problem 1) the bar was cut too far and now sits nearly and inch back from the intercooler.....

Problem 2) the black plastic sections to the left and right of the bar that feed air through are cut up and even broken due to the cooler piping location.

Plan was to get the cooler remounted properly and straight, however judging by the size of the thing its still going to fit that far forward, is there a way to make either a black mesh section or possible a fiberglass insert that still retails the original shape but instead of 2 vents it becomes 1 with the fibreglass moulding around the piping?

Next problem i face is how do i regain the bar that has been molested? Can you fibreglass, fill & paint?

Basically i know absolutely NOTHING about bodywork but i do know that my front bar now looks like a huge pile of sh*t and i want it fixed....

I have circled the problem areas in red -

post-47580-0-87123100-1326693683_thumb.jpg

If anyone has any thoughts on a cheap fix then i'm keen to hear.... Alternatively if someone has a cheap enough white bar i am also happy.... The car looked tough and now it looks dodgy

Please help :/

Cheers

Mat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388423-how-to-repair-a-butchered-front-bar/
Share on other sites

have you got some old bits of plastic from the front bumper?

If so grab them and the front bar and take it to a plastic welder and get them to repair some of the bar, then you should be able to give it another go

have you got some old bits of plastic from the front bumper?

If so grab them and the front bar and take it to a plastic welder and get them to repair some of the bar, then you should be able to give it another go

No, the workshop scrapped them before i noticed what they had done so its not really an option...

only thing i can think of personally is ask a crash shop if they have any left over bumpers they arent using, normally on the inside of the bumper they have a code on it saying (pp or pe or abs etc) normally pp is the common plastic made for bumpers, but check your own aswell.

then go get it plastic welded, i know some crash shops do plastic welding but depends where you are.

hope this helps :thumbsup:

Can you get some close ups of the problem areas? i know the black parts you mean but how bad are they?

You might need to get a 2nd hand bar and start again trimming a little then trial fitting until you get it just right. Took me and my old man about 5 goes but it sits nice and flush.

PS the top mount looks tough :thumbsup:

only thing i can think of personally is ask a crash shop if they have any left over bumpers they arent using, normally on the inside of the bumper they have a code on it saying (pp or pe or abs etc) normally pp is the common plastic made for bumpers, but check your own aswell.

then go get it plastic welded, i know some crash shops do plastic welding but depends where you are.

hope this helps :thumbsup:

Thanks for the info champ! :cheers:

Can you get some close ups of the problem areas? i know the black parts you mean but how bad are they?

You might need to get a 2nd hand bar and start again trimming a little then trial fitting until you get it just right. Took me and my old man about 5 goes but it sits nice and flush.

PS the top mount looks tough :thumbsup:

Sure can, i have to take them for the workshop responsible to see so i will post them once i have them.... I really want to hide the pipes and am considering black mesh in front of the cooler to protect it and to continue the stealth theme.....

Cheers mate, i sorta regret doing the high mount at times because i just want to drive the damn thing, but then think about the potential it has and keep at it :thanks:

cheer up mate , doesnt look bad at all . i had to do the same thing to my r34 when i installed my fmic. in my opinion i cut it right to the line of the paint , rather then keep all the plastic as it would look like dogs breakfast seeing a bit cut out to suit pipes . but if your that worried about it , get the mesh , paint it black and fit it yourself , most people do that.

cheer up mate , doesnt look bad at all . i had to do the same thing to my r34 when i installed my fmic. in my opinion i cut it right to the line of the paint , rather then keep all the plastic as it would look like dogs breakfast seeing a bit cut out to suit pipes . but if your that worried about it , get the mesh , paint it black and fit it yourself , most people do that.

I forgot to get the close up pics... When you see them you will see why i complained... I have decided i will blank off where the pipes go with something and mesh in front of the intercooler after i cut it straight, the cut done on the bar varies by about 10mm from one end to the other, its so dodgy!

  • 4 weeks later...

yeah it doesnt look to bad in the pic..maybe just cut it so its at least straight if thats your worry, dont matter so much if it sits flush, as long as the cut is neat it will look clean..

Mesh can be bought form supercheap , otherwise if your really anal about it just source a new front bumper and start again cause its the only way you will be truly satisfied..

If theres one thing I know about cars its that they are like women.. that is the closer you get to them the more you notice the little things that are wrong with them..sometimes you just have to stand back a distance and look at her from someone elses eyes, then you realize its not as bad as you think...

my car is f**ked, the panel gaps are all out, there 3 different shades of grey paint, the dog has run all over the roof and scratched it, and theres about 4 million cable ties holding it together, but everytime I see it leave my house on a towtruck I think, you know it looks pretty good from a distance.....lol

nice turbo btw.. ;)

if you were to get it engineered i know Athol has got my mate to put the wog mesh infront of his cooler, so i would be looking at doing that anyway.

Fair enough, i think ill get some black mesh and do it.... :thumbsup:

yeah it doesnt look to bad in the pic..maybe just cut it so its at least straight if thats your worry, dont matter so much if it sits flush, as long as the cut is neat it will look clean..

Mesh can be bought form supercheap , otherwise if your really anal about it just source a new front bumper and start again cause its the only way you will be truly satisfied..

If theres one thing I know about cars its that they are like women.. that is the closer you get to them the more you notice the little things that are wrong with them..sometimes you just have to stand back a distance and look at her from someone elses eyes, then you realize its not as bad as you think...

my car is f**ked, the panel gaps are all out, there 3 different shades of grey paint, the dog has run all over the roof and scratched it, and theres about 4 million cable ties holding it together, but everytime I see it leave my house on a towtruck I think, you know it looks pretty good from a distance.....lol

nice turbo btw.. ;)

It was more of an issue that i asked this shop NOT to touch the front bar... I would have cut and test fit over and over until it was neat and flush... The paint on the car isnt the best but i was planning on having it re-done in just the stock white at some stage, now it just looks like a cheap R34 banga......

On the woman note, Agreed AND they also cost you :rofl:

Oh and thanks, the turbo is what started the whole build..... Simple turbo swap i said...... I failed at the simple swap and got carried away :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...