Jump to content
SAU Community

Awwwwwwwwwwwwww Yeah! :p

045HOW

By 045HOW,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

roba Enthusiast

roba

Posted
Posted (edited)

Bit more info on it here guys...

http://www.nzjetboating.com/yabbse/index.php?PHPSESSID=bebea27e45e9e5a9b5f908a21730ecc2&topic=21985.0

Some engine details:

30 block - oil returns enlarged, 12mm studs, custom 3 stage dry sump, spool kit

26 head - tomei 272 10.8mm cams & springs, exhaust ported, stainless valves, oil returns enlarged

greddy plenum port matched , itb's removed, 90mm throttle body, bosch 2000cc injectors, double cored water/air intercooler, crank mounted sensor

sinco large diameter twin scroll manifold, twin tial 38mm wastegates,

Holset HX-52 turbo(non standard water cooled core 16cm2 turbine and smaller comp cover to fit my setup)71mm comp inducer.

Yes, it makes far to much power for a 15ft hull. :O

Edited by roba
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...