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yeah i tried all that Ben and Joel,

I just took it around the block then and it drives ok, feels a bit sluggish down low but starts to go hard by about 4000rpm, but i dont want to take it to high RPM or drive it too much just incase... but i drives, but will not hold idle.

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HEY bbenny

just a thought but in the process of taking it all apart you may have accidently disconnected 1 or a few vacuum hoses...i know when i was mucking around puting in a catch can i knocked a vacuum hose and it did the same thing...idle would drop then die....similar to when you have a stock RB20DET and disconnect the plumb back pipe from the BOV

just a thought..maybe check all ther hoses

Aaron

yeah i tried all that Ben and Joel,  

I just took it around the block then and it drives ok, feels a bit sluggish down low but starts to go hard by about 4000rpm, but i dont want to take it to high RPM or drive it too much just incase... but i drives, but will not hold idle.

Wierd?? sounds like a vacum leak, or something like that. Is your vacum lines hooked up to your BOV? Might pay to get a timing light and check the timing??

Does it blow alot of black smoke out of the exhaust at idle? That is a sure sign of a vacum leak.........

i played with the idle, but no adjustments made any difference.

i did pull the throttle body off for the installation but i dont think that would be the cause.

It runs fine when you give it some throttle.

the only thing i see responsible is the stiff in. cam...

i have tried just about everything else there is!

i played with the idle, but no adjustments made any difference.

i did pull the throttle body off for the installation but i dont think that would be the cause.

It runs fine when you give it some throttle.

the only thing i see responsible is the stiff in. cam...

i have tried just about everything else there is!

does seem odd, thats why I thought of the throttle, maybe its not open enough under idle or something? could explain why its running fine when the throttle is open a little? just a thought, as other wise I have no idea mate, sorry

You checked base timing yet? what is that set to?

I can't really see how a cam that is harder to turn (but is also is just as hard when the stock cam is in place) would be the culprit

well it was noticably harder to turn...

but then again that could be due to some of the lobes compressing a valve or two...

I can only point to a few possibilities - either the in. cam is not turning free enough, as we have discussed.

or the posibility that the timing belt jumped a tooth when i started the engine

however i did turn the engine manualy 3 revolutions and check the timing marks on crank and cam pulleys...

Its frustrating!

I will disasemble the whole damn thing again and see if i find anything.

Yep i think it is.

Ive decided to bail on the cams as i just cant afford aftermarket management.

otherwise it would be one kick-ass upgrade, i mean 25rwkw average increase for $300 is pretty damn impressive!

so im a little dissapointed i cant pull it off with the std ecu

i can confirm it is the ECU flysky. because i checked and tried everything, there were no other causes.

and SydneyKid has done several running a PFC with no problems and considerable gains.

no probs with standard cams joel

Cams and cam gears are in... only thing is i need someone i Melb that has a blown RB20 that i can steal some parts off.

I need the cap for cylinder no.6 on the inlet cam...as one of the stud has siezed in the aluminium cap, i was lucky to get it unbolted from the head without snapping or seizing...

Anyone in Melb able to help me out, or know of a friend/workshop that can help me without woth one (will need thw two stude that go with it as well.

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