Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo For Rb25/30

megzz

By megzz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jet_r31 Mentor

jet_r31

Posted
Posted

turbo not too small,

25/30, 330rwkw, 3076R.82 rear (atrG3 equiv)

Has it done any more passes with higher than 118mph??, i only ask as i have seen 12.0-119, 120mph passes in R33 with stock Rb25's ...256 ponnies and old

Dynosaur T04H trim, T04b .60 comp cover ,sierra turbine, op6 hi-flow with made 299rwkw, then dyno was recalibrated and it made 260rwkw.

And Hypergears hi-flows are better than that old shit.

thought 330 would equal 123-124mph?

cheers

darren

sriver killer Proficient

sriver killer

Posted
Posted
<br />Has it done any more passes with higher than 118mph??, i only ask as i have seen 12.0-119, 120mph passes in R33 with stock Rb25's ...256 ponnies and old<br />Dynosaur  T04H trim, T04b .60 comp cover ,sierra turbine, op6 hi-flow with  made 299rwkw, then dyno was recalibrated and it made 260rwkw.<br /><br />And Hypergears hi-flows are better than that old shit.<br /><br />thought 330 would equal 123-124mph?<br />cheers<br />darren<br />
<br /><br /><br />

only second run of the night man ha, cut me some slack.

But yes have hit 122 mph on street tires. That exact run had my GT30 on it.

yet to test the gtx out and crack a high 11.

  • 3 weeks later...
sriver killer Proficient

sriver killer

Posted
Posted

G3 is in postage!

Hey Sriver killer,

what sort of rubbers were u running on the rear? they seemed to hold up with the launch. I'm gonna need similar.

that exact run I had some 245/50s on ford pre au stockos ( 99% sure). the same can be done on stock R33 rims although it is not recommended (too much bulge on a 6.5 inch rim, minimum recommended is 7 inch rim.

Depending on your application I find you need a minimum 255 width tyre even better get semi slicks (KU36 or Federal 595 rsr's) for the street or track.

300zx stock wheels are a cheap alternative for a pair of drag rims for slicks as they are 16 X 7.5. wide enough legally to run ET streets in about a 245 size

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...