Jump to content
SAU Community

Dual Dvd Screen / Factory One

purezx

By purezx,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

purezx Contributor

purezx

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

Almost finished my M35 daily driven project, straight through 3" to on next week but at the moment i am needed hopefully only one wire to complete the sounds system. So here is the situation, i purchased the JVC DVD player head unit the only single DIN DVD player on the head unit, reason for purchase is that you can run another screen of it, What i am aiming for it to video out from the JVC head unit into the factory pop up one. What i need is to find out how to tap into the factory screen to get it to come up? due to it not being AV in it all hard wired. Everything else is hooked up, TV tuner, subs, speaker amps etc etc. Its only that, i am not after the standard fuel consumption etc to be converted to English i am looking at overriding the standard setting to make it a different screen only used off the headunit.

If anyone can let me know that would be fantastic. I am hoping it will be an easy job ;)

P.S its the interior and model with the three gauges and the single din headunit.

Thanks stagea's :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389259-dual-dvd-screen-factory-one/
Share on other sites
The Stag Wagon Enthusiast

The Stag Wagon

Posted
Posted

Actually this will be interesting to find out, was too thinking of getting a set up similar to what you are hoping to get, but instead of completely overriding the screen, somehow be able to switch between two settings/channels, thus allowing for the standard fuel consumption and etc to be shown (converted to english of course) as well as an aftermarket screen

just need to get my m35 first! :P

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

You can do it, but you have to run the cables from the head unit all the way back to the stock TV tuner.

Brad (Ducati02) did mine, you could PM him and ask. Not sure if there is a tutorial.

It's not plug and play. He had to make connectors to interface with the stock TV tuner.

I have a similar setup to you, TV playing on the stock screen, and two headrest monitors for the back seats. All works perfect.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Is it a matter of only hooking up the video wire? Because all the audio would come from the JVC headunit correct? Where is the standard TV tuner located in the rear??

Pics and stuff would help me greatly

post-76144-0-37175800-1327444201_thumb.jpg

post-76144-0-06465400-1327444218_thumb.jpg

This is the layout of the white socket on your tuner:

1________6

2__3__4__5

1 - audio right (red - inner conductor)

2 - audio left (white - inner conductor)

3 - audio ground (shield of both red & white above)

4.- video (yellow - inner conductor)

5 - not used

6 - video shield (yellow - outer sheild)

Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted

Both there is 2 wires for the video

If you stip back your video lead the outside sheild goes to pin 6 and the center core of cable (usually yellow for video) goes to pin 4. Make sure you strip it so its not shorted.

Although from what I have seen the factory leads they use pin 5 as the shield. So 5 or 6 will do.

Once you get the video to work it will most probably be blocked whilst driving.

The english conversion can unblock this. Or you can get a TV override box and loom.

Try watching your factory TV and see if a message comes up and the screen goes black when you dive. Then you will need it over ridden

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

Or if your lazy and can wait a week or two, you can buy the ready made connector cable from yahoo auctions.

or if you are even lazier chuck me $40 and I will send you a new one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...