Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh I was thinking I would get that as well, otherwise I'll get it installed and then find I need more inputs and have to change it again, doesn't make sense.

So can anyone tell me more about QuickTune? Is it as easy as it sounds for tuning cruise cells?

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh, can get the link for around $1500. Will see what price my tuner will do on the VIPEC, but if they are the same then it's no biggy either way.

$1650 is the exact price from the local distributor (Advan in Sydney) including the required upgraded map sensor if you're running higher boost. Link really would be smart to just include the better map sensor standard.

$1650 is the exact price from the local distributor (Advan in Sydney) including the required upgraded map sensor if you're running higher boost. Link really would be smart to just include the better map sensor standard.

Well if the Vipec comes with the 3 bar sensor and works out to be cheaper than I should be all good, I won't be running more than 2 bar of boost anyway.

i think Rob from RIPS got me the extra harness, which i'm very glad he did because i think you need it if you want to do the flex-fuel setup. It has the digital input channel i believe.

Roy, who's tuning? might make a difference if they'll be 'bundling'

Right, so I just got a price for the Vipec V44 from the local dealer; $1750 for just the plug in board. Would still need to get the harness extension, IAT sensor, and upgraded MAP sensor as it does only come with a 2.5 bar sensor.

Compared to the Link which I can get for $1700 including all the above. I know which one I'm leaning towards at the moment...

http://www.speedtechnz.com/shop/brands/link/GTT+Link+G4+-+Nissan+Skyline+R34+GTT.html

And

http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3&category_id=868&page=shop.browse&limitstart=15&limit=20&vmcchk=1&Itemid=3

Still not sure if I want to buy through my tuner so they are better inclined to me or buy elsewhere and just get them to tune it. Sad world we live in that I even have to think about that closedeyes.gif

Re Speedtech and others...Dont assume you will be able to buy from NZ or other OS stores. Two NZ Link dealers knocked me back in November as they were told not to sell into others markets. :(

So I would be getting on the phone and speaking to them....yo umay find you have to buy off a local agent. Thats a good thing to me as whats the point of being a dealer if people are just going to buy OS. Sux for the consumer, but good for the shops that we need to have around to do work for us

Anyone out there running either of these ECUs able to comment on their ability to hold boost? I am tempted to run some air injectors from the unused outputs as this approach seems to give you the boost control you need from internal gate turbos running E85 happy boost levels of ~28psi

I have cousins in NZ that I can speak to.

I'm all for supporting local industries if they support me, but my local dealers aren't interested in helping me out. My tuner said he is happy to install and tune the VIPEC, but he is too busy to help me diagnose and fix my car running the NIStune. All the workshops I've spoken to are the same, they're not interested because my car is a conversion.

Yeah that kinda thing would make me not want to support the locals either because clearly all they are doing is trying to make money by selling you an ECU.

I guess it depends on how much you will save. Speak to the cuzzy's i say

They are a business. No shame in making money from on-selling, especially if they are an approved dealer who has perhaps invested time and cost in training and supporting a product. Hell they dont get paid for the 40mins on the phone answering questions about the product, so if they sell it they are entitled to a few dollars in my eyes.

LOL, that means I dont try and get around it myself :)

Personally it pisses me off that I have an Cosworth ECU that works great....just isnt supported by anyone here as in motorsport world they sell themselves and not readily used by street/modded car workshops. So now have to look at something like a Link :( I cant even download the tuning software, I have to buy it :( So having a dealer network that is protected can be a good thing...you only notice it when there isnt a dealer network :(

Lol, I don't think I've ever managed to get my tuner on the phone for more than 2 minutes. As I said, don't have a problem with paying for something if the workshop is helping me out. Like my intake pipe. I had the car in there for the turbo install and a tune, Andy was happy to fit me in and gettin car finished, but it would cost me $400 for the pipe. I gave him the go ahead because it wasn't his problem but he was still happy to sort it out for me.

Right, so tuner says $3500 to supply, install and tune. Not sure I can justify it, given I don't know 100% it will solve my problems. Might have to just forge ahead with the NIStune, see if I can run up $3500 on retunes everytime it doesn't work :glare:

$3500 supply, install, tune? seems a bit high?

Ecu = $1700

Install = $90 (just say 1 hour, won't need it, it's a plugin for goodness sakes)

Tune = $1710 - that's errr.... a lot.

even if it's 2 hours labour of install time, which is very generous, that's still a massive tuning bill. You'd be hard pressed to find a tuner who doesn't say how easy it is to tune the Link/Vipecs up.

Roy, you could always try Trent, you'd be surprised by how many different ECU's he's played with over the years. If not, i'm sure he could sort it out if you could get the software (but prob not much point if that costs as much as a new Link)

This is what I thought unsure.gif I'm all for paying top dollar for a good tune, but... I'd do it if I knew for sure that it would fix all my problems, but at the moment it's a $3500 gamble that I think I'm gonna have to fold on.

The Link "plug in" ecu for Skylines isnt 100% plug in though hehe. Theres still a few wires that need attention, running the vac hose through the firewall, removing the intake pipe and installing IAT sensor etc. It all takes time obviously.

They do come with startup maps however so that does save a shitload of time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...