Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oil analysis asap, don't run it until you get it back. Depending on results run it for another few hundred kms and oil analysis again.

If the trend looks bad pull the motor down, if it has improved significantly you might be fine. If the results you get back on the first test spell disaster pull it down now.

Remember if you pull it apart early the damage might be minimal, if you wait until you spin half your bearings and send metal through everything then you might be up for a lot more money.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Oh so it looks that bad?

I honestly have no idea but better to be safe and sorry, oil analysis can tell you more than a visual inspection of bearings half the time.

Lets say for instance the bearings are completely wrong tolerances, the oil analysis will tell you that, if you continue to drive it it will chew everything the f**k out and could cause a catastrophic failure.

Edited by Rolls

Did you thoroughly wash your block and crank before assembly?

Crank was hot washed after being blueprinted, all the slugs were drilled and tapped so that was all spotless, i cleaned block thoroughly, keep in mind I did this in my workshop at home, so not a cleanroom. Head was totally disassembled and cleaned after being drilled out and drains ground, using petrol sprayer and compressed air.

Keep in mind I made my sump huge (7.5L not including cooler) and although I washed it well there may be shit from there but i doubt it, only thing i recon the shiny flakes may be the zinc coating off the hinges i used in the sump? not sure why it'd be coming off though...

I honestly have no idea but better to be safe and sorry, oil analysis can tell you more than a visual inspection of bearings half the time.

Lets say for instance the bearings are completely wrong tolerances, the oil analysis will tell you that, if you continue to drive it it will chew everything the f**k out and could cause a catastrophic failure.

Ok, ill be doing analysis, but the company that did my crank and block said the filter paper looked relatively normal, apart from the black carbon stuff, however there was not really any black stuff just a bit of silver and a few bigger flakes of whatever it is the second time.

Bearings were individually blue printed and thrust bearing clearanced etc, so I see no reason for it to be crank bearings breaking down here- not to say definately however.

The content in filter reduced by huge amounts the second time though.

I guess the good side is the filter is doing its job.

I remember my first build the oil came out like glitter the first time, but it turned out the bores were half a thou tight at bottom and crank not measured or anything. It was badly glittered though lol.

Yeah the bearings was just an example, I doubt that is the case here, chances are it is fine but you've spent a lot of coin, $50 oil analysis is good insurance.

Hell yeah, but im not sure its panic stations yet, considering the amount of shit in filter greatly reduced, i wont head to tuners again till i get oil sussed out, but i think ill keep running it in a such (10psi should be around 220-240kw going off dyno chart) which is actuator spring pressure and once iv done several hundred kms ill dump oil (redline 15w/50) and put new stuff in and recheck the next filter.. If the amount of rubbish was increasing however, id be packing it

Nope but good luck. Hopefully you will have been worrying about nothing and it will all be gone with the next oil change.

I'm going to rip my oil filter apart after the first oil change when I get my engine all put together and see what's in mine.

Anyone else got opinions on the pics? oil test sample is leaving tomorrow thumbsup.gif

Cheers mate, post up pics of yours when you do please :-) Im hoping for no really bad news anyway. I gotta drive it for 60kms tomorrow and needs to be freshly stopped when oil is drained for test

Here is the results, all fine except high levels of silicon. Which they said were most likely silicon sealant used in assembly or dust that went in when i built engine.

I have to do another 100kms on the oil and send another sample to see the trend. everything else he said was fine.

A big thumbs up to oilcheck in sydney. Sent friday, results tuesday morning. win.

So im pretty happy there's no bad metals running around in there. I guess the silver flakes were zinc off the hinges as i suspected. I will be able to sleep again.

Anyone have input?

post-80095-0-79982300-1328605116_thumb.jpg

post-80095-0-25118000-1328605136_thumb.jpg

Good result :thumbsup:

Here is the results, all fine except high levels of silicon. Which they said were most likely silicon sealant used in assembly or dust that went in when i built engine.

I have to do another 100kms on the oil and send another sample to see the trend. everything else he said was fine.

A big thumbs up to oilcheck in sydney. Sent friday, results tuesday morning. win.

So im pretty happy there's no bad metals running around in there. I guess the silver flakes were zinc off the hinges as i suspected. I will be able to sleep again.

Anyone have input?

post-80095-0-79982300-1328605116_thumb.jpg

post-80095-0-25118000-1328605136_thumb.jpg

Yep. I was quite relieved. hopefully silicon is stable next test. It can really be coming from anywhere else.. And the tests are really cheap. about 36 bucks a go. i was expecting a hundred to 150 bucks.

Thanks everyone for the help/input thanks.gif

Now to get the rest done and hit the dyno thumbsup.gif

That is awesome news mate!

Could have just saved yourself years of paranoia if you didn't get the test done. Just make sure you get the follow up done to get a trend and then sounds like you shouldn't have any issues!

Just looked at your pics of filter paper mate and it looks like your fingers have more dirt than the filter :whistling: for anyone who's interested when you first start a rebuit engine a few trouble signs are unusually high or low oil pressure and if you have higher than normal oil temp this is usually as sign of bearing trouble. Of course any weird noises means stop! But you did the right thing by getting oil analized. for what you had done ie: sump,head etc you often get those little bits in the filter you missed on the wash. Just look at any piston skirts (below the rings) and see the verticle lines and you'll see how much shit gets left behind after a rebuild.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...