Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

We took our R32 GTR out to the circuit last weekend and everything was great until we got the car home and up onto the axle stands to inspect everything.

When we took the front tyres off we noticed the inside wall of the tyres was starting to come apart (see pictures)

We don't feel we ran them too low pressure wise (we started off with 28 psi cold) and then worked towards a 32psi hot on all four tyres.

There's no visible damage to the outside wall of the tyres

The main tyre that is really bad is the left hand front tyre (inside wall), the two main almost hairpin corners at the track are right hand corners and the track is predominantly right hand corners and quite high speed.

Any thought as to what has caused this? The New Zealand Michelin Motorsport tyre distributor has told us we ran the pressure too low which we dispute.

Tyre size is 240/640R17

Prior to this session at the track the slicks had done twelve laps.

photo3cb.jpg

photo4ko.jpg

photo6wr.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390037-michelin-slicks-malfunction/
Share on other sites

Rubbing wasn't the issue if you look at the last two pictures you can see the writing on the side wall perfectly untouched and also the ribbed lines the run across the sidewall.

So what was the days temperature, any idea on track temp, camber and toe settings

We have been having the same issues with another tyre over here on V8 touring car only on hot days and extreme loads.

Don't try and run the tyres again chords are broken

If you are sure pressures were correct, pending on camber and toe settings, tyres look to have been very hot? - if not, I would say - its a tyre case issue

Hi guys,

We took our R32 GTR out to the circuit last weekend and everything was great until we got the car home and up onto the axle stands to inspect everything.

When we took the front tyres off we noticed the inside wall of the tyres was starting to come apart (see pictures)

We don't feel we ran them too low pressure wise (we started off with 28 psi cold) and then worked towards a 32psi hot on all four tyres.

There's no visible damage to the outside wall of the tyres

The main tyre that is really bad is the left hand front tyre (inside wall), the two main almost hairpin corners at the track are right hand corners and the track is predominantly right hand corners and quite high speed.

Any thought as to what has caused this? The New Zealand Michelin Motorsport tyre distributor has told us we ran the pressure too low which we dispute.

Tyre size is 240/640R17

Prior to this session at the track the slicks had done twelve laps.

photo3cb.jpg

photo4ko.jpg

photo6wr.jpg

Thanks for the replies so far chaps,

To answer a few questions in no particular order :)

- No pyro reading as we don't yet own a pyrometer

- The temperature on the day was no more than 20 degrees, it was an overcast day so not too hot. Not sure on the temperature of the track surface itself

We started the day with 28psi cold all round and worked from there We were aiming for 32psi all round hot and were pretty close to that after letting one or two psi out after our first session. We took pressure readings immediately after pitting the car and took note of them. (off the top of my head the highest reading I would have seen was 34psi hot and the lowest 32psi hot)

There is very slight rubbing on the front plastic wheel arch liner but the is only on near full lock and only affects the outside wall of the tyre.(there's no way we would see anywhere near full lock at this track)

If there was rubbing elsewhere surely that would show up on the tyre itself wouldn't it? There is very little evidence that I can see looking at the pictures that I can see.

Picture of the car (sitting far too high as we had just put new springs in the front)

img0306le.jpg

Camber 4 degrees, caster almost 7 degrees, Front toe 0mm

img0268cv.jpg

I have seen that before with that size and compound tyre - even with brand new stock - especially on powerful cars.

I always recommend 270 68 18 for the R32 GTR. It's the rear tyre of the old Porsche Cup cars (not the Carrerra Cup 30 68 18 or GT cars as in Cup S and Cup RS 31 71 18)

It's looks like a hinge joint failure. Yokohama has a similar problem in the v8 brute ute class hence why they have little front end camber.. I've had this happen before at over 3.5 deg

On an off note if you can afford new slicks why not a cheap pyro?its one of the most important setup tools in racing

Edited by Fatstig

Hi guys,

Thanks for the insights :)

To answer a few more questions.

- blackrex, we've not had the tyres off the rims yet so aren't sure but should go ahead with removing them as they're only good for the bin now.

- Munroman, have you managed to fit a 680 rolling diameter rim under an R32 GTR? We'd love to go down this path as the Porsche Cup slicks are a dime a dozen over here. We did look into this before we went for 17"s but were told a 270 68 R18 wouldn't fit.

- Fastig, we can't afford new slicks (these were bought from Michelin New Zealand second hand) they had done a 12 lap test with them when we bought them. But will definitely get pyrometer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...