Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wondering if anyone could shed some light on my problem,

remove my calipers for painting as they were looking a little bit faded. sealed them all up perfectly before cleaning / painting.

hooked everything back up but now i cant seem to draw fluid down from the master cylinder down the lines to the calipers....?

tried everything i can think of but nothings working....

can only narrow it down to either that

a) master has some how died over a week of not being used

b) lines are blocked (all four? even though they were fine before hand)

c) im doing something wrong....

is there a special bleeding method like bleeding at the ABS control first or what???

i tried regular bleeding and it would work however the pistons inside the calipers arent moving and its not drawing any fluid.

any help or tips would be muchly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390155-r34-brake-problem/
Share on other sites

jeez i wouldve painted them calipers on the car. . . . sounds like you have an airlock in the lines, does the ABS have bleeder screws on them? if so maybe bleed that first and then the brakes in sequence

Are you opening the bleed nipple while someone pushes the pedal to the floor, closing the bleed nipple and then telling the person pressing the brake pedal to release it?

This ensures when the pedal is lifted that fluid gets drawn out of the resivour rather than air drawn back in from the bleed nipple, make sure the bleed nipple is closed before the brake pedal is lifted.

It can sometimes take a few goes to eventually get the air all out.

One other thing, some bleed nipples can need to be opened a little more than normal, just try to avoid getting any brake fluid over your newly painted calipers.....

When we took our calipers off for painting and the fitting of new seals and braided lines a few weeks ago, it took a bit of time to get the fluid coming out of the calipers bleed nipples.

Edited by GTRPSI

okay so ive put it down to the master cylinder....

is there a difference between a r33 / r34 master cylinder or can you run either?

If you get a 33 gts-t master from an ABS car they are the same(only has 2 holes not 4) and will be labelled BM44.. if you cant be arsed I have a whole master and booster setup sitting around that I will sell for cheap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...