Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

just bought a full alarm for my jzx100

need someone who can install with high standards.

would rather give someone here some $$$ to do it as long as its good.

if you want to know the alarm pm me.

cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390437-auto-elec-for-alarm-install/
Share on other sites

Thanks Abe,

As high as my standards are. I have only installed 1 alarm on my old SLR 5000. The alarm wiring is the easy part. Its knowing where it all interfaces in with the car. Might give it a miss.

depending on the alarm , most pro's wont touch it. they only work on name brand stuff in most cases.

eblow or made in china no support alarms are a nightmare and most wont work beyond a few months unless its a name brand

imported name brand installed by DIY and your warranty is void and you can run across issues with insurance also , only authorized dealers can install the product and warranty it .

jack88 might be interested ?

and just because a shop installed it doesnt mean they do it right either, if the shop wont let you see the wiring jobs walk away . slap happy is not how you do alarms

all joints need solder and shrink wrap or taped with care. no exceptions , connections fail otherwise , and JDM cars use a different wiring in most cases , so diagrams off the net must be confirmed , even dealer diagrams can be wrong or based on US car models that look the same on the outside so beware. that toyota is one

for instance

Skyline R series cars not so much until the R35 they use two different wiring setups from US to JDM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...