Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've recently had my engine rebuilt using Arias forged pistons and am getting huge blow-by and a huge drop in compression pressure ( should be 120psi-140psi but I'm getting 75psi-85psi ) :cuss:

I'm told that the rings are not bedded in and I need to replace these rings and bead hone the bores to fix the problem. I'm also being told by another source that these rings are simply no good and I should get Tomei pistons and rings.

I would really like to hear from anyone who has actually used Arias forgies in their turbo nissan and what the results were like ( before I possibly go ahead and waste more money doing the rings and bore hone ).

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39070-arias-forgies-problems/
Share on other sites

I'm also being told by another source that these rings are simply no good and I should get Tomei pistons and rings.

Sounds like bullshite. Why would one brand (and an expensive one at that) be so much better than a trusted one like Arias.

The original builder screwed the job more likely.

T.

Thanks all.

Well from what I'm told, the people who built my engine are some of the best in the game so I'm now putting the problem down to the oil that was put in (as run-in oil ) by the guys who fitted the engine, or the way I ran it in ( if that's possible ).

I guess my next questions are...... How did you run in your engine ? What oil did you use to run it in ? and How many kms for ?

Thanks.

I've just rebuilt my engine with Arias and have to that I've had no problems what so ever. Engine runs better than ever. I ran it in for 1,000 kms with running in oil (very thin) then changed to like a half/half mineral/synthetic mix for another 500 then switched to my normal oil 10W-40/50 (can't recall).

To give you an idea of how much better mine is now, I can chirp third consistently with 255's on the back!

Used run in oil in mine for 500km's, did a full flush and replaced with Mobil 1 5W-50 for 500kms, did flush again, Mobil 1 5w-50 for 2500kms, did flush, and now its got Mobil 1 5W-50 in it and it goes better than ever.

When running it in I was told to put the engine under load (going up steep hills in a high gear like 3rd/4th so the engine has to work to get up it), never kept a constant speed, never idled for too long and it all seems to have worked well.

When running it in I was told to put the engine under load (going up steep hills in a high gear like 3rd/4th so the engine has to work to get up it), never kept a constant speed, never idled for too long and it all seems to have worked well.

Same advice i was given, and will stick by. Gotta give it sum stick to get those rings to expand, and bed in.

Yeah, I also never maintained one speed...ie driving down a 100km/h freeway i'd do 90, then 95, then 100, then 105 (no i wasn't speeding, it just appears that way), up to 110, back to 90, etc...

Never let it idle for too long, basically drove it without boost but did load it up in high gears but not all the time. Seems to have worked for me.

If you intend to hit the car hard for the entirety of it's life, you have to hit from day 1.

So common wisdom is that you flog it hard.

T.

could it be that the clearances set by the engine builder were a little on the large side? as in to allow massive boost etc?

Used run in oil in mine for 500km's, did a full flush and replaced with Mobil 1 5W-50 for 500kms, did flush again, Mobil 1 5w-50 for 2500kms, did flush, and now its got Mobil 1 5W-50 in it and it goes better than ever.

When running it in I was told to put the engine under load (going up steep hills in a high gear like 3rd/4th so the engine has to work to get up it), never kept a constant speed, never idled for too long and it all seems to have worked well.

Recently ran in mine using Arias ....... ran it in very similar to Amaru .... no problems what so ever .... only thing is my car sounds liek a ute when i start it up now ..... im not sure if thats normal or not

I've heard quite a few Arias fitted RB engines and they generally sound less "rattley" than say an engine rebuilt with Wiseco slugs.

I've been told that this is because they have a lower co-efficient of thermal expansion compared to other forged pistons, and therefore the clearances can be less (ie more in line with OEM pistons).

Anyone know for sure?

GAV: i dont know were you heard that from but i had wiseco's in my engine when i rebuilt it and it never rattled, nor did it rattle with the ariais in the previous engine. how ever i did get some blow by with the arias.

In regards to running in, I used motul oil and drove it slowly for the 1st 200kms then started canning it from then on. At jamboree last yr when i raced the engine was under 500kms old on the saturday.

Come 7 months/ 10 000kms later the car is still going and going strong.

i guess it just comes down to the way the engine is built

harun

yeah the engine build is very important but the way you run the engine in will determine if you have a good engine or not, doesent matter if the engine is done perfect if you do it wrong it will burn oil.

im currently getting my engine built and getting a 550hp setup together, my biggest problem is running the engine in as i have a new computer and will not be able to run the stocker as i have a 32 and fitting a rb25engine, so i need to tune and run in together, not a good thing

i used arias pistons when i rebuild my rb 26 , 87 mm , 4 thou clearance . as with all chrome rings you need a good hone . i used run in oil for 800 k then mineral oil for 4000 k then helix ultra . when running it in put it under load from the start but only for short periods like full throtle in higher gear for like 20-30 seconds then back off then on again . i have no problems with blowby whatsoever and 175 compression .

fat 32 , did they bore it out to suit the new pistons ? the clearances maybe to big or the ring gaps to big

Thanks for all the info Guys & Girls.

Here's the low-down. ProFlow at Rossmore built the engine and they're renowned for building high quality and high power engines ( mostly big HP V8's for drags ) and I have very little doubt in the quality of their workmanship ( however, after sales service leaves a little to be desired ). The bores were machined to suit 40 thou oversized Arias slugs.

The guy that installed the engine ( not ProFlow ) put Synthetic 5w40 oil in as run in oil which I didn't know about ( and don't really think is correct ). He believes that itwill make no difference at all to the run-in.

The car: From a cold start up to operating temp, the engine is as quiet as a mouse and driving the car is reasonable until you hit the loud pedal and get up on 18-20psi boost and then the oil catch can goes from empty to full in no time flat ! I ran the engine in for about 400kms before changing oil and filter but the car just seems to be going down in power every time I drive it.

From all that I've heard now ( forums, workshops, and owners ), it would appear that Arias pistons and rings are great so long as boost is kept below 18psi ( due to ring design ) and if you want to run bigger boost than that you're best to get Tomei or Jun pistons. This is only a conclusion that I've made from talking to around 40 or so people re this subject.

Since I'm essentially broke at the moment I'm thinking of doing what Chris32 ( and others )suggested and chuck some mineral based run-in oil in, turn down the boost to about 14psi max and thrash the nuts out of it to see if the ring might bed in. If this doesn't work I'll just park the car and start stripping it :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...