Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've recently had my engine rebuilt using Arias forged pistons and am getting huge blow-by and a huge drop in compression pressure ( should be 120psi-140psi but I'm getting 75psi-85psi ) :cuss:

I'm told that the rings are not bedded in and I need to replace these rings and bead hone the bores to fix the problem. I'm also being told by another source that these rings are simply no good and I should get Tomei pistons and rings.

I would really like to hear from anyone who has actually used Arias forgies in their turbo nissan and what the results were like ( before I possibly go ahead and waste more money doing the rings and bore hone ).

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39070-arias-forgies-problems/
Share on other sites

I'm also being told by another source that these rings are simply no good and I should get Tomei pistons and rings.

Sounds like bullshite. Why would one brand (and an expensive one at that) be so much better than a trusted one like Arias.

The original builder screwed the job more likely.

T.

Thanks all.

Well from what I'm told, the people who built my engine are some of the best in the game so I'm now putting the problem down to the oil that was put in (as run-in oil ) by the guys who fitted the engine, or the way I ran it in ( if that's possible ).

I guess my next questions are...... How did you run in your engine ? What oil did you use to run it in ? and How many kms for ?

Thanks.

I've just rebuilt my engine with Arias and have to that I've had no problems what so ever. Engine runs better than ever. I ran it in for 1,000 kms with running in oil (very thin) then changed to like a half/half mineral/synthetic mix for another 500 then switched to my normal oil 10W-40/50 (can't recall).

To give you an idea of how much better mine is now, I can chirp third consistently with 255's on the back!

Used run in oil in mine for 500km's, did a full flush and replaced with Mobil 1 5W-50 for 500kms, did flush again, Mobil 1 5w-50 for 2500kms, did flush, and now its got Mobil 1 5W-50 in it and it goes better than ever.

When running it in I was told to put the engine under load (going up steep hills in a high gear like 3rd/4th so the engine has to work to get up it), never kept a constant speed, never idled for too long and it all seems to have worked well.

When running it in I was told to put the engine under load (going up steep hills in a high gear like 3rd/4th so the engine has to work to get up it), never kept a constant speed, never idled for too long and it all seems to have worked well.

Same advice i was given, and will stick by. Gotta give it sum stick to get those rings to expand, and bed in.

Yeah, I also never maintained one speed...ie driving down a 100km/h freeway i'd do 90, then 95, then 100, then 105 (no i wasn't speeding, it just appears that way), up to 110, back to 90, etc...

Never let it idle for too long, basically drove it without boost but did load it up in high gears but not all the time. Seems to have worked for me.

If you intend to hit the car hard for the entirety of it's life, you have to hit from day 1.

So common wisdom is that you flog it hard.

T.

could it be that the clearances set by the engine builder were a little on the large side? as in to allow massive boost etc?

Used run in oil in mine for 500km's, did a full flush and replaced with Mobil 1 5W-50 for 500kms, did flush again, Mobil 1 5w-50 for 2500kms, did flush, and now its got Mobil 1 5W-50 in it and it goes better than ever.

When running it in I was told to put the engine under load (going up steep hills in a high gear like 3rd/4th so the engine has to work to get up it), never kept a constant speed, never idled for too long and it all seems to have worked well.

Recently ran in mine using Arias ....... ran it in very similar to Amaru .... no problems what so ever .... only thing is my car sounds liek a ute when i start it up now ..... im not sure if thats normal or not

I've heard quite a few Arias fitted RB engines and they generally sound less "rattley" than say an engine rebuilt with Wiseco slugs.

I've been told that this is because they have a lower co-efficient of thermal expansion compared to other forged pistons, and therefore the clearances can be less (ie more in line with OEM pistons).

Anyone know for sure?

GAV: i dont know were you heard that from but i had wiseco's in my engine when i rebuilt it and it never rattled, nor did it rattle with the ariais in the previous engine. how ever i did get some blow by with the arias.

In regards to running in, I used motul oil and drove it slowly for the 1st 200kms then started canning it from then on. At jamboree last yr when i raced the engine was under 500kms old on the saturday.

Come 7 months/ 10 000kms later the car is still going and going strong.

i guess it just comes down to the way the engine is built

harun

yeah the engine build is very important but the way you run the engine in will determine if you have a good engine or not, doesent matter if the engine is done perfect if you do it wrong it will burn oil.

im currently getting my engine built and getting a 550hp setup together, my biggest problem is running the engine in as i have a new computer and will not be able to run the stocker as i have a 32 and fitting a rb25engine, so i need to tune and run in together, not a good thing

i used arias pistons when i rebuild my rb 26 , 87 mm , 4 thou clearance . as with all chrome rings you need a good hone . i used run in oil for 800 k then mineral oil for 4000 k then helix ultra . when running it in put it under load from the start but only for short periods like full throtle in higher gear for like 20-30 seconds then back off then on again . i have no problems with blowby whatsoever and 175 compression .

fat 32 , did they bore it out to suit the new pistons ? the clearances maybe to big or the ring gaps to big

Thanks for all the info Guys & Girls.

Here's the low-down. ProFlow at Rossmore built the engine and they're renowned for building high quality and high power engines ( mostly big HP V8's for drags ) and I have very little doubt in the quality of their workmanship ( however, after sales service leaves a little to be desired ). The bores were machined to suit 40 thou oversized Arias slugs.

The guy that installed the engine ( not ProFlow ) put Synthetic 5w40 oil in as run in oil which I didn't know about ( and don't really think is correct ). He believes that itwill make no difference at all to the run-in.

The car: From a cold start up to operating temp, the engine is as quiet as a mouse and driving the car is reasonable until you hit the loud pedal and get up on 18-20psi boost and then the oil catch can goes from empty to full in no time flat ! I ran the engine in for about 400kms before changing oil and filter but the car just seems to be going down in power every time I drive it.

From all that I've heard now ( forums, workshops, and owners ), it would appear that Arias pistons and rings are great so long as boost is kept below 18psi ( due to ring design ) and if you want to run bigger boost than that you're best to get Tomei or Jun pistons. This is only a conclusion that I've made from talking to around 40 or so people re this subject.

Since I'm essentially broke at the moment I'm thinking of doing what Chris32 ( and others )suggested and chuck some mineral based run-in oil in, turn down the boost to about 14psi max and thrash the nuts out of it to see if the ring might bed in. If this doesn't work I'll just park the car and start stripping it :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...