Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if i had a car that ran 9 sec 1/4 mile, i wouldn't give a flying fcuk how quick it was on the street !! who cares ?

drag racing is from 0 to 400m, not from a green light to the end of the track, and a car that runs 9's on the track pulls around 220 to 240 km/h !!!! who the fcuk would do that on the street ?

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if i had a car that ran 9 sec 1/4 mile, i wouldn't give a flying fcuk how quick it was on the street !! who cares ?

drag racing is from 0 to 400m, not from a green light to the end of the track, and a car that runs 9's on the track pulls around 220 to 240 km/h !!!! who the fcuk would do that on the street ?

"Drag Racing" is who gets to the 1/4 mile first....end of story

How fast you can do 1/4 mile is a different story.Munro has covered it pretty well

I've decided to see how the other side of drag racing lives and I'm entering my first bracket meet this Saturday at WSID. Lucky I don't have a 9 second car!!

Let's see what there is to this reaction time business :-)

Adrian

its whoever gets to the end first after the light drops..

what do you mean by "spooling up?" if you mean spooling up the turbo until the lights go green isn't that irrelevent as its your definitely not sitting there at idle *until* the green xmas tree light goes on in any car.

do you mean from idle revs or something?

:confused:

In any situation, whether at the strip or "elsewhere" you generally know you are about to be dragging and prepare things. Even if you're on a rolling start, your turbo would probably be "spooled up" anyhow.. so i can't see the situation where suddenly you both have to start at "idle" speed.

Ninja you mstne understand , when your at the drags you see turbo cars for examples VL's etc etc after the green light they sit at the lights getting some boost spooling up there turbo with antilag then launching on the perfect boost for launch on that car...id rather a car that can just go there and run a 9 like a GT-R and not sit on the lights for 6 years.... then take off.

launch assistance is another can of worms I think :mad:

If Leewah can show what his car is capable of with stock interior (is he still running the full interior?) and can drive to the track and do a 9 (even if it is a high 9) i think a new record will be set, at least in my eyes anyhow.

A half a second is obviously a lot longer amount of time than you realise.

Isn't he still half a second away from the 9?

Oh, and don't start quoting power figures at me... They mean nothing without timeslips :mad:

Adrian

Competition drag racing involves more than just timing from crossing the beams at the start, to getting to the finish line. Consistancy, reaction time etc are all just as important as ET. Especially in dial your own racing. Where RT and consistancy is pretty much everything.

Getting a bit of topic.............

A half a second is obviously a lot longer amount of time than you realise.

Isn't he still half a second away from the 9?

Oh, and don't start quoting power figures at me... They mean nothing without timeslips  

Adrian

When he got 10.47 or whatever it was, this was before the engine was rebuilt, and the happy gas added - and i think around 200rwkw less, and nearly 10 months ago now. So it should be capable of something a reasonable amount better. Im not sure of the exact configuration at the moment, or whether he even has plans to drag race it before sale. But yeah, hope he does :) But no, the power figure may not be a true indicator either.

I'm aware of the all the dimishing returns for gains, etc, etc when getting lower and lower into the 11 and 10sec bracket. Guess the NOS that makes it a little easier, but its either that or methanol by about that point.

Maybe in a position like this it would be better to run the time then claim the car has ran that time, as doing it and talking about it are 2 big different things, with the new power comes new problems ie gearbox and traction etc etc so just because someone has XXX more power then when they ran xxx doesn't automaticaly mean they will be that much quicker straight away

Brett

  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like of the guys (and girls?) around here would have only gone to a street meet or test and tune, and therefore are complaining about the cars spooling after the green light. However, as has been pointed out by one or two knowledgable people, there is a huge difference between an official drag meet and a street meet/test and tune.

The whole idea of a test and tune is just that - to test out different techniques, configurations and settings on a car. But when it comes to an offical drag event, then anyone who sits on the line still spooling after the green goes will invariably be the loser. I don't think anyone will argue on the contrary. As long as it covers the standing 1320ft between 9.000 and 9.999 seconds, then I don't see how anyone could deny a car's 9 second ET as being a 9 second ET. It is still a 9 second car at the track. Forget about the street.

As for reaction times, they actually do count. First past the line in heads up racing wins. Reaction time also affects bracket racing with reaction time affecting the final result.

Sure te VL's that sit there are spooling are 9sec cars, if there at a regular test & tune then they can afford to sit at the line as long as they like to get it to the required boost level there after to get the ultimate time.

But when it comes to proper real world competition drag racing under ANDRA regs then they would surely run on a pro tree.

For those that dont know what a pro tree is well thats where the VL lets say gets the a handicap start and gets the green light 1st while the lets say GTR has to wait a couple of secs before he would get the green so the VL would have its green light and would be spooling while the GTR is still waiting to go.

So in fact if that was the case and 1 of these 9sec vl's were racing something like leewahs GTR for instance on a pro tree then the handicap the VL would get would have it to its desired boost level for take off by the time the GTR owner gets the green so they would basically be takin off around the same time.

You have to remember all these 9sec VL's run very large non roller bearing turbo's with large exhaust housings so once they start catching onto the roller bearing turbo train then i think alot of these prolonged spooling times will be alot less if not non existent.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • 40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
    • Hello,   My name if Frederick, i'm 30 years old and I live in Belgium, Europe! I used to have a Nissan 370z daily but since I got a company car I turned that into my seattime driftcar. About 3 years ago I also wanted something older with more feel, so I got an R32 GTST with an rb26 engine. I am now getting the rb built to have around 800hp and it's close to being finished. I'm very excited for how it will drive and how driveable it will be! Regards, Fred!
    • Appreciate the insight! Talked to some local folks and they basically told me "it's not that deep." As long as the threading on the inside matches what's at the steering rack, everything else can be constructed-to-fit. There are full aftermarket kits I can use - probably better for my car overall since it's lowered.  Example: GKTech M14 Super Adjustable Inner Tie Rod Set - Nissan Skyline R32 R33 R33, 240SX, 300ZX, 350Z / Infiniti G35 M14I-TROD-2 gktM145-TROD gktM14I-TROD - Concept Z Performance (These can be packaged with their "high misalignment" tie rod ends).
×
×
  • Create New...