Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just bought a s2 stagea engine for my r34 gt-4 4wd manual but don't know what diff to use.

i have been told to use the na diffs which is 4.3:1

i have also been told to use the turbo diffs which is 4.11:1

so my question is what is the better diffs to use

the car is being used as a daily driver

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391197-question-what-diff-to-use/
Share on other sites

I just installed 4.3 and is shit on freeway. sits up just under 4,000rpm.

4.11 was much more suitable but went 4.3 so I can turn 3rd easier.(stock power) Will be running 4.3 locked on track days and 4.1 as daily. Only half hour job swapping 'em so doesn't bother me.

In short answer is 4.11 as Nismoid said

The Stagea diff is 4.1 and your rear diff is 4.3 so you are going to have to change one. I would change the rear to suit the front so both 4.1

I would guess you now have more power than before so a slightly taller gear would be a good idea.

My Stagea with 4.1 diffs is doing 2700 rev/min at 110km/hr.

If I can find a non V-spec R34GTR diff I will be changing to 3.454:1 ( I have an RB30/25 with heaps of torque).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...