Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just meant they probably haven't done one before which means they may take three times longer to do the job (as they don't have special tools etc that are required). Most places will over quote unknown jobs too.

Your turbo feels the same as a Sierra Stage 1 one setup!.....to say that it wont be laggy at all is wrong!....and yes I have driven yours and numerous other setups.

That was the older profile, the current profiles are once again totally different just like every thing else we do. They also made to work with stock oil feeding line, we no longer supply braided lines for that model.

I look forward to testing your unit the next time someone brings one to me. Great that your using the standard lines.....bit of a pain in the arse for the guy installing wave.gifbut definitely the better option imo.

That was the older profile, the current profiles are once again totally different just like every thing else we do. They also made to work with stock oil feeding line, we no longer supply braided lines.

What are the wheel and core specs of your new unit and pricing?

Cheers

Hey guys found a guy from wollongong, who is able to do a standard rebuild to the turbo so sending it his way tomorrow so will see how it turns out and let you all know...

Cheers Gav.

Will be interesting to hear what they build for you.. I have note heard of anyone being able to rebuild the stock turbo to the same specs. :whistling:

  • 2 months later...

Anyone know of someone, workshop or owner, who has removed a turbo from an m35 in the Wollongong area??

Mines on the way out. I'm doing house renos too so I'd love for someone to do the whole process for me.

If you want to bring it up to Sydney I can do it for you.

If you want to bring it up to Sydney I can do it for you.

Yeah it shouldn't be a problem coming to Sydney, I work at the airport anyway. Where abouts in Sydney are you?

I'm not in any immediate hurry to have it fixed, it still drives great (appart from the random growl over 4k revs), I'm just wanting to know some prices for the time being so I can get some cash together.

The stagea is not my daily so it can be off the road for little while.

Thanks for your help

Yeah it shouldn't be a problem coming to Sydney, I work at the airport anyway. Where abouts in Sydney are you?

I'm not in any immediate hurry to have it fixed, it still drives great (appart from the random growl over 4k revs), I'm just wanting to know some prices for the time being so I can get some cash together.

The stagea is not my daily so it can be off the road for little while.

Thanks for your help

Give me a buzz on 0406754304 when you get a chance.

cheers

Craig

Yeah it shouldn't be a problem coming to Sydney, I work at the airport anyway. Where abouts in Sydney are you?

I'm not in any immediate hurry to have it fixed, it still drives great (appart from the random growl over 4k revs), I'm just wanting to know some prices for the time being so I can get some cash together.

The stagea is not my daily so it can be off the road for little while.

Thanks for your help

PM sent

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...