Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got a set of HKS 2510's for my RB30DETT, only thing is that with the stock turbo's its making 280+ rwkw, and from what i can see these turbo's wont make anymore power then this...

anyone used them before? is it worth installing them? I don't get why HKS would make a set of turbo's that are not any better then the stock r32 twins?

anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

how much power should these 2510's make ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391875-rb2630-with-hks-2510/
Share on other sites

Given 2530s are bigger than -5s (400rwkw+)

And 2510s we the baby/response upgrade, probably similar to either -7 or -9 - so 300-330rwkw perhaps?

Perhaps look @ the Cartride tag, might tell you more of the story.

Or work it out from the comp wheel and compare to a -7/-9

seeing that it has the steel rear wheels, and a extra 50kw at the top end... should not be soo bad of an upgrade...

i really do enjoy the stock r32 turbo's to be honest but i do not know how long they will last on 14psi with a rb30 spinning them up

I'd probably guess not too long, and if they do let go - motor could go with it :(

If you've got em off - measure the wheels. Will give you the easiest way to work out where they "sit" in relation to other more well known offerings

No Idea on power. I bought the turbos with the engine but did some research before handing the cash over. A few UK GTR owners were getting 400 - 420rwhp on them.

Not a very widely used turbo from what i can see

A close friend has a 2510 equipped GTR, I consider his car to be fairly well optimized in terms of supporting mods.

The 2510s feel to have an excellent top end and are fairly linear down low but have a fairly sharp shift onto power. Sort of like a big single.. they have the low end pull of a 300kw turbo, and they make just over 300kw.. but they have the lag of a 350-400kw turbo lol

This is just my feeling, and I flat out keep telling the guy to swap for a single but yeah... Hes spent enough money. If I was you I would sell them and buy a good quality singe manifold :) then bang on a 300kw capable single and reap.

Guilt & I were looking @ specs quickly earlier and they are sorta in the middle of a -7 and -9

Bigger comp, but a tighter trim so they *should* be somewhere between a -7 and -9 so 320-330rwkw and about as responsive as it gets. Shouldn't feel "laggy" like a -5 set would.

looking in the engine bay today... looks like it will be quite a mission to put a big single in the Z engine bay, the twins are just about touching atm.

might have to stick with twins on this car... besides 330kw at the wheels is good for a daily streeter with a stock rb30e bottom end.

Check out the specs of the exhaust wheel and consider that too much flow from the front side for the rear more or less would stall them. I think thats their problem, they choke on spool and take a little longer than expected to wind up.

Probably worse on a 3L too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...