Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 478
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm definitely in, based on what else is needed to fit them... All listings state cars with factory HID's...However, most are removed for compliance.. If it's pretty straight forward to get these working... im in for a BLACK HOUSING set.. 2003 Coupe

^^^ incorrect. Despite the fact that Aus compliance states that ALL factory HIDs without self-levelling and self-washing facilities need to be removed to meet ADRs, when I was shoppping for a V35 I couldn't find one without HIDs! I think there are WAY more with HIDs than without.

But if you buy an aftermarket HID kit which are as cheap as $200 now you could fit them into these new lights with basic meachnical/auto electrical skills. You only need to modify a couple of wires, and install a power wire to the battery on a relay. I did it on my S15 and R34 - pretty easy job!

the seller said Zenki (early) and Kouki (late) models are both ok.

Confirmed List:

Chrome housing:

1. 4evershiva

2. 81gSKy y

3.Nightcrawler

4. Thinktea

Black housing:

1.Dreadnought

2.Megahowler

3.Runner4life

Edited by shiva

the seller said Zenki (early) and Kouki (late) models are both ok.

Confirmed List:

Chrome housing:

1. 4evershiva

2. 81gSKy y

3.Nightcrawler

4. Thinktea

Black housing:

1.Dreadnought

2.Megahowler

3.Runner4life

DO you have a pic of the back of these lights? im curious if the have the factor HID hole that fits the ballast and then you run the wires through the headlights and then use the HID bulb??

See the below pic, look at the area above the white box, thats where the factory HID ballast goes..

http://www.sabersport.com/Merchant2/images/headlight/02-AZ-IG03-PCC-HID-RF-2D-02.jpg

my car has hid lights, couldnt tell you if they are factory. they where there when i bought it. im not the first owner in aust. but if they will work with any hid's ill def be in for a chrome set. thanks

hey Sheldon, can you give a plain and simple answer so everyone's question can be answered.......i know you had some trouble to get the LHD to RHD in your lights but apart from that is it a big deal to get the lights fixed into the car with RHD specifications and is it legal?

Jesse's Payment options:Direct your enquiries to [email protected]

for a larger order like this an international transfer will work out a

little cheaper.

bank charges and options are as follows.

Paypal <- will be instant and you have buyer protection, Im also

protected from exchange rate changes as I can send you the bill in

JPY. Has a 4% fee and they dont give the advertised exchange rate ,

works out the most expensive way to transfer money.

Local transfer in AUD to my NAB account <-this has no buyer

protection, Im open to exchange rate changes so can be burnt if the

AUD takes a quick dive. no straight fees but the rate they give is

~3.3yen down on the advertised exchange rate. This is how I do most

of my transfers from Aus due to ease of transfer for the customer and

cheaper rates than Paypal.

International Transfer <- slow, a little complicated for you to send

money, takes a week for the money to clear into my Japanese account.

No buyer protection. They will give the advertised exchange rate and

as the money can be sent in JPY Im safe from exchange rate changes.

They do have large flat fees though, depending on the bank you use

on your side fees range from $0 to $25 and then there is an additional

4000yen receiving fee on my side. This kind of transfer only works

well with transfers over ~$1500 worth (this is how most car exporters

move money around)

Im ok with any of those ways so which ever suits you is ok.

*Ill only need the purchase cost of the tail lights up front and will

charge my commission and shipping costs after they have reached me and

have been weighed up.

Jayce - I Have aftermarket headlights from U.S

I have attached the link below.

Took me and A mate about 5 hours - hard bit is getting front bumper off. But second time its simple with practice. Sock might be easier - have the nismo one.

Post me with any questions mate.

3470-projector-headlights.asp&docid=vCQhRAQNqisyRM&imgurl=http://www.slickcar.com/products/LHP-G35032JM-TM9241885E-02.jpg&w=750&h=750&ei=-PVXT8b3OuyhmQW4m-DADw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=610&vpy=193&dur=234&hovh=225&hovw=225&tx=95&ty=153&sig=110179230568841931979&page=1&tbnh=142&tbnw=142&start=0&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0&biw=1151&bih=786

Jesse's Payment options:Direct your enquiries to [email protected]

for a larger order like this an international transfer will work out a

little cheaper.

bank charges and options are as follows.

Paypal <- will be instant and you have buyer protection, Im also

protected from exchange rate changes as I can send you the bill in

JPY. Has a 4% fee and they dont give the advertised exchange rate ,

works out the most expensive way to transfer money.

Local transfer in AUD to my NAB account <-this has no buyer

protection, Im open to exchange rate changes so can be burnt if the

AUD takes a quick dive. no straight fees but the rate they give is

~3.3yen down on the advertised exchange rate. This is how I do most

of my transfers from Aus due to ease of transfer for the customer and

cheaper rates than Paypal.

International Transfer <- slow, a little complicated for you to send

money, takes a week for the money to clear into my Japanese account.

No buyer protection. They will give the advertised exchange rate and

as the money can be sent in JPY Im safe from exchange rate changes.

They do have large flat fees though, depending on the bank you use

on your side fees range from $0 to $25 and then there is an additional

4000yen receiving fee on my side. This kind of transfer only works

well with transfers over ~$1500 worth (this is how most car exporters

move money around)

Im ok with any of those ways so which ever suits you is ok.

*Ill only need the purchase cost of the tail lights up front and will

charge my commission and shipping costs after they have reached me and

have been weighed up.

I should allaborate a bit on my previous post - for everyones benefit.

Long story short;

- Factory HID's - Fitted straight into my Headlights from the U.S. They sit perfectly in the aftermarket metal clip and the ballast screws to the bottom - per stock set up.

- Yes - you can do it yourself - there is no wiring required - unless you want to light up the Halo's (I only have the LED sttip). In which case - Cut wire and solder it in. The front bumper needs to be removed. give yourself 5 hours or so if you havent dont this before from start to finish.

- NO they will not be legal. However - most workshops will give you a roadworthy but just notify you that if you're asked to take them out due to defect - do it.

- The lights will not point correctly immediateley after install.... you will need to spend time toggling the left and right / up and down screws in the back of the lights. You need to understand where the stock set up points - so you can adjust accordingly. Test this about 15M from a wall and If possible mark on the wall where the stock set up sits. On the V series you will notice the left light points slightly higher and to the side of the road. The right hand light (the one that will shine in traffic's eyes) needs to be put as low and straight as practically possible. This can alleviate some of the problems with no self leveling.

If anyone needs tips, Im happy to help out. Done the job on two cars now....and I work in Bank - so any one can do it!

Cheers

Thanks for the info dude but we are planning on getting these from japan, which should be RHD compliant, so we dont have to fiddle with the light settings.......

I should allaborate a bit on my previous post - for everyones benefit.

Long story short;

- Factory HID's - Fitted straight into my Headlights from the U.S. They sit perfectly in the aftermarket metal clip and the ballast screws to the bottom - per stock set up.

- Yes - you can do it yourself - there is no wiring required - unless you want to light up the Halo's (I only have the LED sttip). In which case - Cut wire and solder it in. The front bumper needs to be removed. give yourself 5 hours or so if you havent dont this before from start to finish.

- NO they will not be legal. However - most workshops will give you a roadworthy but just notify you that if you're asked to take them out due to defect - do it.

- The lights will not point correctly immediateley after install.... you will need to spend time toggling the left and right / up and down screws in the back of the lights. You need to understand where the stock set up points - so you can adjust accordingly. Test this about 15M from a wall and If possible mark on the wall where the stock set up sits. On the V series you will notice the left light points slightly higher and to the side of the road. The right hand light (the one that will shine in traffic's eyes) needs to be put as low and straight as practically possible. This can alleviate some of the problems with no self leveling.

If anyone needs tips, Im happy to help out. Done the job on two cars now....and I work in Bank - so any one can do it!

Cheers

*** Light comes on in Brain***

My bad - yes i see that now! Best of luck with it.

I can recommend importmonster.com.au in that case. Lots of OEM bits.

Cheers

Thanks for the info dude but we are planning on getting these from japan, which should be RHD compliant, so we dont have to fiddle with the light settings.......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...