Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm going to go have a look at a Suzuki GS500F tonight in Moorabbin and I was just wondering if there's anyone that have experience with bikes can help me out...

Because I don't know much about it.. It will be around 6:30pm..

Any help will be appreciated!

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391934-bike-inspection-tonight/
Share on other sites

FYI - the GS500F will be alot more sit-up than the likes of GSXR 600's, and power and its delivery I can assume would be different also.

Alot more 'Commuter' than street racer. If thats what your after.

OriginalK9_GS500FK9_3-4.png

Had a look at it, didn't even bother going for a test ride.

It has been dropped and repaired with masking tape and massive dent on the petrol tank lol.

I'm looking at Ninja 250R's now hehe

Had a look at it, didn't even bother going for a test ride.

It has been dropped and repaired with masking tape and massive dent on the petrol tank lol.

I'm looking at Ninja 250R's now hehe

Mind if I ask what your budget is? Just for the bike?

I'll have a poke around for a good LAMS bike.

Anything you are set on or definitely not interested in?

Have you had any motorbike experience before ? ie dirtbikes?

I had a CBR250R and Suzuki GSF250V on my L's, then got a DRZ400SM.

Been riding dirt for a few years prior getting into road bikes, so already had the basics down.

Pending on your previous experience, would determine what kind of bike i would recommend you.

Those Suzuki's though are apparently not to bad for a LAM's bike.

Oh yea...and DONT forget your gear. A mate of mine just got a brand new KLX250SF, we went for a ride on the weekend. He rode in shorts...I was disgusted.

Come on man, Dress for the fall not for the ride.

Edited by Booki

You might find this a good read too.

Full credit goes too Ian Smith from netrider.

http://www.netrider....ectionchecklist

The FIRST TEST is LOOK

Does the bike look OK?

Does the bike look straight?-look from rear/front and side on

Eyeball-front and rear wheels- are they in line?

Eyeball-is the rear wheel square in the swing arm? check markings at chain adjusters on swing arm

Does bike have all operating bits?- brake&clutch lever, throttle grip, mirrors (2) and not broken..!

Does bike have lights and 4 indicators?

Does the bike have 2 switch blocks?- with horn switch, safety switch, indicators etc

Are tyres OK?.. NOT flat, squared off and have cuts or holes, can you see tyre belts?

Are the wheels complete? no broken spokes or if alloy, no scrapes or cracks

Is bike complete?�has (both if pillion separate) seats, mudguards, hugger, both pillion pegs?

Does fairing look OK, square to frame? Does it have all retainers, no empty bolt or screw holes?

What is condition of bike- cosmetically? check for rust, check tank for dings

What is mechanical condition-is engine clean or oil covered?

Is there oil or fluid on the outside of the front forks?

Is there oil dripping off the bottom of the engine?

Is the oil dripping off or covering the rear suspension?

Check for Petrol leaks from tank or fuel lines or carbys (or injection)

Check levels of �coolant, brake fluid, engine oil (all will have markers for the correct levels)

Check chain-clean/dirty?

Check Sprockets�pointy teeth? no lubrication?

Do electrical harnesses appear retained or and clipped in place, no loose wires running everywhere?

Remove seat and have a look �does it have tools, owners manual?

Remove seat and have a look� at the battery �.is it clean or covered in white powder?

Does bike have a side stand?, a centre stand?

Is bike registered?. CHECK DATE!�is rego sticker displayed?

Does the bike have service stickers on it?�a service history available?

The SECOND test is TOUCH and... LISTEN

Grab exhaust (whilst COLD!) and shake..does it rattle? does it squeak, is it attached firmly?

Grab handle bars�are they loose?, do switch blocks seem tight? are mirrors attached firmly?

Shake handle bars�is front wheel loose (bearing check)

Shake handle bars�do they flop in either direction, is there any rattle or squeaks

Grab gearshift lever�does it only move up and down?(not sideways)

Grab brake pedal...does it only move up and down?(not sideways)

Grab rider and pillion pegs�does it only move up and down?(not sideways)

Grab brake lever�is it stiff to work, or does it move freely

Grab clutch lever�.is it stiff to work, or does it move freely

Grab rear wheel (preferably while on a stand)..can you twist wheel sideways?

Are there any noises during the operations of the levers?�squeaks

Is the chain adjusted correctly?�25-30mm sag in middle of bottom chain run

Check all lights work..turn them on, Headlight High Beam? Stop Light? Instrument lights?

The THIRD test is SIT

Sit on bike and compress forks (hold front brake to do so)..squeaks, groans?

Bounce up and down on seat�noise from rear suspension?

Twist handle bars, do they move freely or are they stiff? (head stem bearing check)

Twist handle bars�do they flop from side to side (loose head stem bearings)

Are the bars or the clip-ons loose?

Do all normal controls appear there?�.levers, pedals, switches

Bounce bike up and down�rattles?

Is seat loose? does it move when you sit on it ? torn? foam soft and saggy?

Finally�ENGINE/GEARBOX (assuming bike is running and has Fuel in tank)

Is the engine easy to start or does it require a SPECIAL start routine! like� pump choke 3 times etc�

Is the engine rattly on start up, does it blow smoke (watch 2 strokes)�does exhaust rattle?

Noise level excessive?�no baffles?, exhaust leaks?

Push in choke�will bike idle without choke once warm?

Put bike in gear�lurch? easy to select gear?

Do safety check before riding bike�do brakes work? (test them)

Go for a ride�check Engine rattles, chain (zmmmy)noise, gearbox operation and noise (NO grinding noises)

How does it STOP?, CORNER? ACCELERATE? CHANGE GEAR?�smooth or jerky?

Is throttle smooth to use?

Are all controls easy to use?

Edited by Booki

Mind if I ask what your budget is? Just for the bike?

I'll have a poke around for a good LAMS bike.

Anything you are set on or definitely not interested in?

Hmm.. My budget would be around 3-4k give or take, would be willing to spend a tad more if it's a good bike and I guess LAMS bikes can hold their value pretty well.

I've been reading for awhile now, I'm pretty set on a Ninja 250R, definitely want a super sports.

Have you had any motorbike experience before ? ie dirtbikes?

I had a CBR250R and Suzuki GSF250V on my L's, then got a DRZ400SM.

Been riding dirt for a few years prior getting into road bikes, so already had the basics down.

Pending on your previous experience, would determine what kind of bike i would recommend you.

Those Suzuki's though are apparently not to bad for a LAM's bike.

Oh yea...and DONT forget your gear. A mate of mine just got a brand new KLX250SF, we went for a ride on the weekend. He rode in shorts...I was disgusted.

Come on man, Dress for the fall not for the ride.

I barely have any experience with bikes... I know how to ride them but that's about it....

And yeah, I definitely won't really cheap out on gear, as it is the only thing that is between my skin and the road lol

The bike is gonna be used to get me from A to B really, but I also want it to look good haha :P

Realistically, should be buying your safety gear first before you even sit on a bike. Too many people buy a bike and then spend what they have left over on safety gear. Don't let your budget decide safety gear, let your safety gear decide your budget. It should be quality and comfortable no matter the expense. Then you can sit on a bike and see if the bike is comfortable with the safety gear you've chosen instead of the other way round...

Booki that is all fine in the internet world but doesn't happenin the real world. No one looks at a bike that closely ever. You'll know when you find a good one straight away. I would get someone who has ridden and worked on bikes to see/ride it before you paid the final amount. Just put a $50 deposit down if your keen. 95% people will accept it.

I've been riding since I was 14 so had a fair few bike over the years. Both road/dirt and they get abused..and worked on. Over 50,000kms on the road plus who knows how many in the bush and at the mxtrack.

To be truthfull buying a road bike is pretty much the same as buying a high end pushy. There not that big an investment and they love to cop a thrashing. If it feels tight and is rediculously clean and owned by a festidous person with reciepts it'll be ok at a guess. If the owner is from the western suburbs or paky way for example you may need to think twice about it. You know what I mean. Don't take offence people.

Most of what goes wrong with bike is an easy fix for a few hundred dollars if you give it a go. To easy to work on. Love ebay!

The main thing you want to look for that that speal didn't mention or I missed it is - Any abrasion to the bike..Fork bottoms, pegs, bar ends, all levers, rear end swinging arm, inside fairings for cracks, engine cases and the muffler. It it has been dropped you'll know in about 20 seconds. Second thing is if it has it doesn't really matter if it wasn't to hard a drop. I've dropped mine doing a stoppie and also on a resurfaced road. They were both slow speed buy the time it hit the ground it did a lot of big dollar damage if you replaced it to be like new but it doesn't effect the bike at all and you can hardly notice it from 2 metres. Didn't replace anything after it. Just bent the clutch lever back. Could be a good way to save a grand or two. No matter what you think you will drop it one day. I don't know anyone who hasn't at some stage. If you don't feel comfortable its prob not for you. You'll become a real temporary Asutralian!! Also smoke on startup( make sure engines cold, touch it) and on decel when warm when revved.

If its your first bike and your not into speeding you don't need $2000 leathers. If a car hits you or runs over you the quality of your leathers won't help at all. They mainly effect how long you can slide before it wears though. Most decent gear will get you through a 100kmh stack. A $300 helmet meets the same standard as a $800 but it weighs a little less. Try to get an aramide one. Don't trust plastic myself. Also good good gloves. Not a $80 pair. Get some like the races wear. You know their good for 300kmh offs. My good alpinestars has have lasted years and over 30,000km's so far with no wear but cost $300. I need my hands, don't know about you?

I'd buy my gear after getting a bike myself. I'd rather a better bike and not so flashy gear but still good quality gear. Thats me though. Less image and more go for the money.

Birds never ever spoken to anyone ever who has bought a bike depending on how it feels with your gear on. Never ever, ever, ever heard that before. Did a salesman tell you that. In the end if you like a bike how it looks/rides and has everything you want just buy it. Expecially if your only spending 4k. No LAMS bikes look good in my opinion. I'd just buy a real 600 for that money and risk the overpowered fine. But thats me. Rules are for breaking.......Even my first road bike is banned now a KR1S 2 stroke but only cost 1k. Was just off matching a 600cc.

Ps - 250 4 strokes are like riding lawnmower powered push bikes, so slow.. Don't expect to much power to feel scared of. You'll be right. The plus side - Cheap to commute on!

I'll be in the market for a 250 soon. No riding experience (license test next week), so it's probably safest to start on a 250 (going for a ninja as well as they're the best looking of the LAMS IMO). Not so worried about the overpowered fine as I am with insurance not paying out in the event of a claim..

Booki that is all fine in the internet world but doesn't happenin the real world. No one looks at a bike that closely ever. You'll know when you find a good one straight away. I would get someone who has ridden and worked on bikes to see/ride it before you paid the final amount. Just put a $50 deposit down if your keen. 95% people will accept it.

I've been riding since I was 14 so had a fair few bike over the years. Both road/dirt and they get abused..and worked on. Over 50,000kms on the road plus who knows how many in the bush and at the mxtrack.

To be truthfull buying a road bike is pretty much the same as buying a high end pushy. There not that big an investment and they love to cop a thrashing. If it feels tight and is rediculously clean and owned by a festidous person with reciepts it'll be ok at a guess. If the owner is from the western suburbs or paky way for example you may need to think twice about it. You know what I mean. Don't take offence people.

Most of what goes wrong with bike is an easy fix for a few hundred dollars if you give it a go. To easy to work on. Love ebay!

The main thing you want to look for that that speal didn't mention or I missed it is - Any abrasion to the bike..Fork bottoms, pegs, bar ends, all levers, rear end swinging arm, inside fairings for cracks, engine cases and the muffler. It it has been dropped you'll know in about 20 seconds. Second thing is if it has it doesn't really matter if it wasn't to hard a drop. I've dropped mine doing a stoppie and also on a resurfaced road. They were both slow speed buy the time it hit the ground it did a lot of big dollar damage if you replaced it to be like new but it doesn't effect the bike at all and you can hardly notice it from 2 metres. Didn't replace anything after it. Just bent the clutch lever back. Could be a good way to save a grand or two. No matter what you think you will drop it one day. I don't know anyone who hasn't at some stage. If you don't feel comfortable its prob not for you. You'll become a real temporary Asutralian!! Also smoke on startup( make sure engines cold, touch it) and on decel when warm when revved.

If its your first bike and your not into speeding you don't need $2000 leathers. If a car hits you or runs over you the quality of your leathers won't help at all. They mainly effect how long you can slide before it wears though. Most decent gear will get you through a 100kmh stack. A $300 helmet meets the same standard as a $800 but it weighs a little less. Try to get an aramide one. Don't trust plastic myself. Also good good gloves. Not a $80 pair. Get some like the races wear. You know their good for 300kmh offs. My good alpinestars has have lasted years and over 30,000km's so far with no wear but cost $300. I need my hands, don't know about you?

I'd buy my gear after getting a bike myself. I'd rather a better bike and not so flashy gear but still good quality gear. Thats me though. Less image and more go for the money.

Birds never ever spoken to anyone ever who has bought a bike depending on how it feels with your gear on. Never ever, ever, ever heard that before. Did a salesman tell you that. In the end if you like a bike how it looks/rides and has everything you want just buy it. Expecially if your only spending 4k. No LAMS bikes look good in my opinion. I'd just buy a real 600 for that money and risk the overpowered fine. But thats me. Rules are for breaking.......Even my first road bike is banned now a KR1S 2 stroke but only cost 1k. Was just off matching a 600cc.

Ps - 250 4 strokes are like riding lawnmower powered push bikes, so slow.. Don't expect to much power to feel scared of. You'll be right. The plus side - Cheap to commute on!

Can't we out west afford decent bikes????im not offended at all but what a stupid thing to say....seriously....you've made yourself sound like a dickhead mate .....

lol WTF. I bought my R1 from Melton, no receipts or service history, guy was a truck driver and it was also cheaper than anything else on the market. Absolute bargain and in perfect condition. It doesn't matter where it's from, the bottom line is if it looks, feels an sounds good.

Also, jumping on a bike and assuming it's comfortable until you get your safety gear on is dumb. Everything changes when you don the gear, this is why I say to buy your safety gear first. How are you planning on test riding the bike without gear anyway? Don't tell me you're one of those, short-trip-a-helmet-will-do people.

And...never dropped a bike in my life. Not saying it won't happen, but not everyone drops. Who knows, maybe cause I don't do "stoppies" it hasn't happened to me yet...

P.S. I hate black people and would never buy anything from them, no offence intended.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...