Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i was really interested to know if anyone can double check for me if turbos from auto r33 gtst's are/look different to manua r33l gtst's?

i bought one and it looks like this.

dsc0629lo.jpg

dsc0626c.jpg

now can someone tell me if this is an r32 gtst turbo or possibly an "auto r33 gtst" turbo.

i have heard this in a couple of cases where the auto r33 turbos look different to manuals but looks similar to r32 turbos but with bigger compressors or something along those lines? do series 1 or 2 matter also?

can anyone confirm?

Edited by jakez88

fyi

the turbocharger on the auto and manual GTST (of the same model) is identical

ie nissan did not make different turbocharger models for auto and manual

they did, however, use a different actuator spring on the auto turbocharger

this is because the AUTO gtst runs less boost than manual from factory

from paulr33.com

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

ah fair enough thanks for that paul. so this is no doubt a r32 gtst turbo?

here are some pics of the rear housing. bigger compressor then normal?

sorry about the crappy pics lol.

201202251759571.jpg

201202251800031.jpg

Ah awesome. Thanks for tht stao...its actually going on a rb20 so should be good. Thanks heaps...looks like I got bargain lol

you can, if you can drill out the oil restrictor on the hollow screw and the benjo. not recommended.

Thats what I have done, been running fine for over 3 years. You just have to be careful of how much you drill into the banjo, as it doesnt like too much or too little oil, esp if its journal bearing.

  • 10 months later...

@paulr33 I beg to differ about the boost levels between the r33 auto and manual. I drive a auto, and before I put a boost controller on, it was boosting to around 7psi in high boost mode. Which should be just over halfway on the stock gauge.

I drive a auto, and before I put a boost controller on, it was boosting to around 7psi in high boost mode.

Says it all. High boost Mode would've had the stock solenoid hooked up which gives 2psi extra.

My car was auto from factory but converted to manual, boost was 5 & 7psi and 7psi with high boost mode.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...