Jump to content
SAU Community

5 Spped Auto + And -

ChrisB

By ChrisB,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

If you can work out where the wiring goes & therefore what it is doing, it could be a legitimate mod, or one that you can easily reverse. In that case see if you can get the dealer to go back to the original offer to pay for the gearbox. Then you will have a spare to use or sell :whistling: .

I'd be hesitant having it sent to another workshop who may discover the switch, flick it off (or remove & bypass it) & say 'all fixed', without actually knowing what it does.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

If it locked the stall converter you would stall at lights. It could perhaps unlock it but my money is on a rwd/awd switch. It seems to have been done locally too. I would be asking them to take it to Nissan and plug the consult3 in to retrieve the codes.

ChrisB Rising Star

ChrisB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have traced the wires from the switch.

Remember the trans runs fine when the switch is on and goes into limp mode a few times a day when the switch is off.

See pictures below of the wiring.

Obviously if I restore the wiring to factory the problem will be fixed.

If anyone has any information on the wiring and why anyone would want a switch to break this circuit id like to know.

Should I still get the transmission joint to look at it while its under warranty?

Cheers

Chris

post-72666-0-88618900-1332721057_thumb.jpg

post-72666-0-55287900-1332721068_thumb.jpg

post-72666-0-76894200-1332721095_thumb.jpg

post-72666-0-88101900-1332721106_thumb.jpg

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

SEL3, whatever that means, I cant see any info or what it does other than it goes back to the valve body. Perhaps its the 3rd gear selector switch or something?

I will delve further if you want but I would say its been done to get around a fault of some kind.

ChrisB Rising Star

ChrisB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Scotty,

Thing is, with the switch closed the car runs fine.

With it open, it essentially cuts that pink wire.

I have removed the switch and now the pink wire is where it belongs in the trans ecu.

Interesting to see that the yellow wire has also been cut at some point and has already been put back together.

There is another hole drilled in the blank switch cover next to the switch that was in the pink wire.

I believe at some point there were two switches.

Perhaps some performance mod that was done in Japan and then only partially removed?

I'm going to take it to the transmission joint the dealer wants me to use tomorrow and see what they think.

While shes running fine its one thing but i know there are still metal filings in the bottom of the pan so a good flush and maybe even a trans cooler wouldn't hurt.

Scotty, if you can confirm why they may have been a switch in the 3rd gear selector or valve body, it could well be useful if i need to negotiate the repairs with the dealer.

Thanks

Chris

:thanks:

ChrisB Rising Star

ChrisB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

By the way of closing off this thread I will end by saying thanks to everyone for their input and add that i have now changed the + and - shift direction back to the way Nissan intended.

Some of you may cry out that I'm wrong but to be honest the Stagea is a stock standard daily and the V36 now only comes out when the sun is shining. I wanted the Stagea to have the same shift direction as the 370GT because I'm just used to it and don't want to have to think about it. Having said all that I only ever use the shift stick in the V when I'm bored with the paddles anyway!

It would seem that the auto transmission is fine now that I have put the transmission ecu wires back where they belong and removed the mysterious switch. I believe that back in Japan, someone had also put a switch into the yellow wire to lock the torque convertor manually perhaps in 3rd gear, and the remaining switch in SEL3 was the leftover remains of the thrill seekers experiment. There was after all evidence of a second switch from the hole left in the blank cover. Twice last week the 4WD warning light came on and reset by cycling the ignition. I haven't seen this fault or had to deal with transmission limp mode since removing the switch (or leaving it in the closed circuit position).

Going to the car dealers preferred mechanic on Monday to pull the pan off and look for any more metal flakes. Best I can hope for is that the dealer picks up the tab to flush the box and fill with Mattic J for peace of mind.

My next post will be of some pictures of the Stagea and the new head unit being fitted this Friday.

Cheers

Chris

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Glad it is sorted Chris and hope the dealer pics up the tab.

btw, it's not you who is wrong (you are after all just used to the directions), it is Nissan that are wrong :P

It's quite obvious that Nissan are wrong after another performance company goes to the hassle of making up parts to change it!

http://usa.auto-style.jp/?pkey=item_info&i_code=MNS24123290001&

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...