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R32 Gtr Stalling On Idle After Rev

Travis32

By Travis32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

for the 10,000th time Mafia I run a atmo bov and have no problems and run 300rwkw...

so go eat dick...

Help the OP diagnose the problem if your so good, maybe, just maybe its something other than one of your pet hates....

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

for the 10,000th time Mafia I run a atmo bov and have no problems and run 300rwkw...

so go eat dick...

Help the OP diagnose the problem if your so good, maybe, just maybe its something other than one of your pet hates....

When I bought my car it also had an atmo bov and never stalled once on me, never ran boggy, never had issues.

Travis32 Proficient

Travis32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

for the 10,000th time Mafia I run a atmo bov and have no problems and run 300rwkw...

so go eat dick...

Help the OP diagnose the problem if your so good, maybe, just maybe its something other than one of your pet hates....

lol ive had turbo cars n for 10yrs all had u know those wanker twirly things that get women to get naked on side of the rd lol and not once have a ihad any problems with bov bein atmo lol but im just a loser who knows nothing cos im no a "TUNA"

and yes im calling u a fish cos its just an insult to ppl who tune cars to call u a tuner

Travis32 Proficient

Travis32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When I bought my car it also had an atmo bov and never stalled once on me, never ran boggy, never had issues.

lol mr mafia i suggest u go chow down on some cock buddy lol

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

You can bandwagon all you like, but I can see the retardness all the time when I have the wideband in. Whether you think the car is running right or not.

But if you guys want to think or continue to think that adding an air leak to a AFMetered system is a wise idea, then complain about any kind of stalling, good for you. Just shows you do not understand at all. Just want noise.

Maybe buy a MAP sensored ECU so you can blow off your load all you want.

It all physics, and in plain black and white - ATMO BOV + AFM = Wrong, never meant to happen.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

There is nothing to tune around, other than "fudging a few figures". But it can never be fixed. - And, I hope you do realize that a BOV that doesn't leak, is one that is welded shut, or recirculating back?

The second the BOV opens to make the big "whhhooosshh" its leaking? Can you not see that? How can that be not obvious?????

Also, when your BOV is tight, its not doing anything, other than creating reversion... you know... tututututut.......

All these problems... for a noise.... amazing

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

Yes I realise when its open the system is leaking, yes yes...

Im not into the sound, its just the fact that I dont want a crap rubber hose going from side of the engine bay to the other (forward facing plenum)

and I cant yet justify getting a nice metal pipe fab'ed up just yet... yet

seriously though cars can run fine with an atmo, I have hardly any knock, Im not too worried about reversion as its only on low pressures this happens with mine, otherwise its a straight release no tut sound.

Just everytime someone says atmo you immediately jump down their neck about it, its definitely your 'pet hate', get over it...

you have good knowledge, why not help out the OP and then 'IF' everything points to the problem being the atmo sure suggest they remove it...

verbally abusing people for it aint the way too go...

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have already helped the OP by stating that the SARD is junk. He even answered his own question.

I've seen so many of them exhibit this exact symptoms, and make the car useless to tune.

Hence now, if I pop the bonnet and see a sard or malpassi, I tell them not to come back until I see a nismo or factory one attached.

Edited by The Mafia
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

You've made 2 changes, and now the engine doesn't run right. Well then, the obvious thing to do is go back to the point where the engine ran without any problems, and change just one. If the engine still runs fine, then it has to be the second change that is causing the current problem. Otherwise its the first change that is causing the current problem.

It's not rocket science.

NoFigJamHere Enthusiast

NoFigJamHere

Posted
Posted

Mr Mafia you seem adament that an atmo BOV on a GTR will 100%, without doubt, put ya house on it cause a rich condition on decel because you are so Knowledgable and a specialist "tuner" but do even know that a GTR shuts the injectors OFF on decel? So your entire thesis/theory on OEM GTR BOVs is how does one say ..... Horse shit!!!!! Hmmmmmm....... And as for SARD fpr's the only times ive ever seen them give trouble is when 1 has been fitted incorrectly or was 1 of the chinese copies that have diaphram issues.... What is your background? ie: where did you learn to tune? Do you have a workshop or do you work as a tuner for a shop? Now to the orig poster i had this excact same issue with my R33 GTR and it turned out to be 1 of the AFMs was shagged. Replaced them both and problem went away. If you can borrow a pair of known good AFMs to try do it asap and save your hair. PS make sure you have the fuel lines going into the correct ports of the fpr, they cannot go either way. Erratic fuel pressure is a major cause of concern imo. Cheers. N if i was you id just ignore Mafia seems like he got a laptop for xmas and now with a few cables he's a "tuner" ...I dont know why he gets so jacked up over something so trivial but im guessing it was because he knew something that nobody else did!!!!

Travis32 Proficient

Travis32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You've made 2 changes, and now the engine doesn't run right. Well then, the obvious thing to do is go back to the point where the engine ran without any problems, and change just one. If the engine still runs fine, then it has to be the second change that is causing the current problem. Otherwise its the first change that is causing the current problem.

It's not rocket science.

i been thinkin fuel reg since it started thing is i thought id rule everything out b4 i had to start spending money.

i dont have the standard reg or rail anymore so cant really go back

mafia says fuel reg so im gonna try a mates one tonight see how it goes n to make him happy im gonna take the bov off.He knows his shit but just the way he talks to ppl i dunno how he has any customers.

also thanks to those who dont talk to ppl like theyre a peice of shit

Travis32 Proficient

Travis32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mr Mafia you seem adament that an atmo BOV on a GTR will 100%, without doubt, put ya house on it cause a rich condition on decel because you are so Knowledgable and a specialist "tuner" but do even know that a GTR shuts the injectors OFF on decel? So your entire thesis/theory on OEM GTR BOVs is how does one say ..... Horse shit!!!!! Hmmmmmm....... And as for SARD fpr's the only times ive ever seen them give trouble is when 1 has been fitted incorrectly or was 1 of the chinese copies that have diaphram issues.... What is your background? ie: where did you learn to tune? Do you have a workshop or do you work as a tuner for a shop? Now to the orig poster i had this excact same issue with my R33 GTR and it turned out to be 1 of the AFMs was shagged. Replaced them both and problem went away. If you can borrow a pair of known good AFMs to try do it asap and save your hair. PS make sure you have the fuel lines going into the correct ports of the fpr, they cannot go either way. Erratic fuel pressure is a major cause of concern imo. Cheers. N if i was you id just ignore Mafia seems like he got a laptop for xmas and now with a few cables he's a "tuner" ...I dont know why he gets so jacked up over something so trivial but im guessing it was because he knew something that nobody else did!!!!

hey man thanks heaps ay ill try get a pair of good afms to try man and yeah i appreciate ur not blowing up at me lol

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