Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldnt use standard sticky / duct / electrical tape, your right - that wouldnt do anything.

However in the picture I found on google, that looks like cloth tape to me.

It's 3m blue painters masking tape. All the ricers use it because it doesn't leave any residue behind and they think it looks cool

I use it for masking off panels when polishing

Reality is clear sticky tape would offer more resistance - simple test, try pushing a ball point through plastic based sticky tape vs paper based masking tape

Edited by domino_z

It's 3m blue painters masking tape. All the ricers use it because it doesn't leave any residue behind and they think it looks cool

I use it for masking off panels when polishing

Reality is clear sticky tape would offer more resistance - simple test, try pushing a ball point through plastic based sticky tape vs paper based masking tape

Yeah judging by the colour, it probably is that 3M tape actually, now you mention it.

Thats the same tape I use when polishing. Very thin - wouldnt do sh*t for your bumpers!

So how does a bidding war work?

Did you deal with the people bidding or with the owner, because i sure as hell wouldnt trust myself from getting greedy when selling a car if i had more than buyer interested :)

I'm not suggesting that a war happened in your case ossie but could not a seller co-opt the help of a phantom bidder when a seller advertises "bids over such & such"?

Easy to do?

Congrats on a sensational motor vehicle - one of the world's best!

It's 3m blue painters masking tape. All the ricers use it because it doesn't leave any residue behind and they think it looks cool

I use it for masking off panels when polishing

Reality is clear sticky tape would offer more resistance - simple test, try pushing a ball point through plastic based sticky tape vs paper based masking tape

Wrong.

Congrats on your purchase. Definitely a good a buy with those KLM's if the car is immaculate. Thanks for letting us know what you paid too, certainly is a very helpful guide. When you look at some of the other cars there for sale, they really are dreaming for what they're asking. As has been said before on this forum 'the market decides'.

  • 2 weeks later...

Congrats on the purchase,

But for those taping up their cars to stop chips etc... for the love of god, at least get it done using a decent product.

Yes it costs a little more than a roll or 2 of tape, but you can barely see it for one, and it should last for years, and WILL actually stop stone chips, and even minor scratches/scrapes.

We use 3M scotchguard paint protection film. See below. (FYI this image isn't my own)

384712_215961441814801_100002028414598_508191_895571087_n.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...