Jump to content
SAU Community

Ideal Rim Size For An R34 4 Door?

Pearcey

By Pearcey,
in Suspension, braking and tyres

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pearcey Contributor

Pearcey

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

Im in the process of looking for rims and i think im going to go for Lenso D1R's, just curious as to whether im better off going for 18"s or 17"s?

I just dont know which ones will fit better and fill up the guards nicely.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Pearcey Contributor

Pearcey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i think im with you GTSBoy, i think ill run with the 17's but being only an inch bigger than the factory 16's I hope they dont look to small in the gaurds, would there be any problems with 18s scrubbing?

As for width im going 8"s on the front and 9.5"s on the back :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Pearcey Contributor

Pearcey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

IMO 18 x 9.5" are a good compromise for road feel.

but fitment is all dependant on an aggressive offset.

in terms of offset for a 17" wheel what would you recommend? another random question are the guards the same size between coupe and 4 door models?

Sorry im a bit of a noob when it comes to skylines this is my first one, used to working on kingswoods and commodores, thankgod i don't anymore :rofl2:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Pearcey Contributor

Pearcey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You should check out the wheel size thread (all 84 pages) at the top of the list - there should be plenty of 34s in there

Cheers mate saw that thread a while ago and completely forgot about it, i think ill be running with 17's :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Once again, the diameter of the wheel has no effect on anything that has been asked about (except the look). The gap between the tyre and the guard should not be affected. The offsets required are not affected. The chance of "scrubbing" (whatever was meant by that) is no different.

If you use 18s then you should use a lower profile tyre such that the total diameter of the tyre is the same as the 17" would have been and what the original 16" was. You don't want to go outside the limits set by the road laws, or you are inviting defects. You don't want to introduce big speedo errors either.

/Rocket surgery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Pearcey Contributor

Pearcey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If you intend to do a brake upgrade later on, then take size of your possible future rotors into account, that's basically the only thing that affects rim size other than looks

Valid Point.

Seeing as 18's dont change the overall diameter of the wheel as GTSBoy said, if i were to run 18's what would be a reasonable offset that will allow me to get away with rolling?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Pearcey Contributor

Pearcey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

they do, that is why everyone is suggesting 18 inch

especially on a commodore looking 4 door 17 inch will look small

yeah im going 18's now, just need to sort out a decent offset

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KURTIS34 Community Regular

KURTIS34

Posted
Posted
1331445067[/url]' post='6270040']

especially on a commodore looking 4 door 17 inch will look small

are you sir saying that an 4 door 34 looks like an commodore ?

I disagree with you I have an er34 gtt 4 door

Wheel specs Rears - 18x9.5 + 18 rears rolled and flared a tiny

Front 18x8.5 + 25 sit about 20mm in guards because of camber.

But before this I has 20x8.5 +38 all round

Not sure if this helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • Ghosty033
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By Ghosty033 · Posted

      curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, of course there's something wrong with the suspension. It was like that when it came out of the factory. Nissan wanted it to ride at least 50mm higher than most of us. They wanted it to be comfortable enough that the press and user reviews didn't complain about fillings being knocked out of teeth. The marketing people wanted to be able to talk about their fantastic new 4WS system (even if it was a pointless exercise, ha! pointless! Do you see what I did there? no? oh well. too bad). There weren't any semi-slicks or semi-semi-slicks or 18" wheels. Laser pointers didn't exist, so you couldn't easily build a bump steer gauge. There wasn't any better technology for suspension bushes than squishy shit in a condom. The list goes on.
    • joshuaho96
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I personally recommend not messing with factory suspension until you can clearly identify something wrong. For example I think the R33 might need some way to adjust front camber because I feathered the edges of the tires much more than the center of the tread doing some figure 8s and slalom.
×
×
  • Create New...