Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

either do a full engine, rear end, everything swap like i did (if you really love your car) or just sell and buy a turbo model

pm me if you want a list of parts and aproximate prices of what i payed about 3 years ago

Well, i bought the car for a very low price so even if it costs me $3000 to get the turbo in i still get a turbo r33 for less than the average selling price...

Have you read what most of the people have been saying here? The rb25de engine runs much higher compression than the rb25det, this means if you bolt a turbo onto it it will more than likely ping due to the boost and high compression. It will cost more like $5k (to buy a rb25det and then install it) to do the conversion, plus you still need to change the brakes (well you dont have to but I would as the gts25-t came with better brakes than the gts25). Next you'll be asking about doing an auto to manual conversion... *laugh*

If you're willing to accept any possible misadventure go for it...I've been more than happy with my bolt-on....high-compression can be your friend if tuned right.

It's also true..the R33 N/A brakes are very ordinary 4-stud items...the R34 N/A are 5 stud with twin piston fronts instead of single, you also have vastly different cams to the turbo model.

Check out the N/A section..it's been covered a fair bit

haha i knew it davor!

just stick with what you have got mate, its still a bloody good car. and you just bought it like 1 month ago! and you are on your P's and its illegal to drive an R33GTS-T (if you do and crash it you may not be covered by insurance...)

just learn how to drive in this car properly and later on go and get more power...

Waz.

There is plenty of information that can be found via a search on here.

But basically not worth doing. Cheaper, and more effective to sell off your old N/a (maybe get $1500 for it), and get an RB25DET (maybe $2500 for one).. and swap the whole engine over.

If you did turbo it, due to different compression, etc you would only be able to run fairly low boost levels (7psi or so). It would work, but if you got that far, you'd probably want to modify it, and then you may as well have got the RB25DET put in instead.

plus an engineers certificate

Are you sure about that? I thought you could self-engineer an engine swap if it was an engine present in the model range.

Edit: Here we go... from http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/heavyvehicles/do...s/vsi/vsi06.pdf, hence NSW only:

Examples of minor (owner certified) modifications are:

• engine changes where the capacity increase is less than 15% above the maximum size engine available for the vehicle (providing no major structural modifications are necessary and where noise and/or exhaust emission ADRs apply, all standard equipment such as carburettors, exhaust systems, exhaust gas recirculating valves, oxygen sensors and catalytic convertors relating to noise and emission control are retained and operate correctly);

• the fitting of a proprietary sunroof (if the modifications are of a minor nature only);

• fitting a “package” available as optional equipment for the vehicle (eg front disc brakes, power steering, alternative transmission and bucket or bench seats);

• additional lighting eg: fog & driving lights;

• alternative wheels and tyres within the owner certified limits set by the Authority (see Vehicle Standards Information Sheet No. 9 Guidelines for Alternative Wheels & Tyres);

• fitting of handling enhancing suspension components such as roll stabiliser bars and up-rated shock absorbers.

LW.

haha i knew it davor!

just stick with what you have got mate, its still a bloody good car. and you just bought it like 1 month ago! and you are on your P's and its illegal to drive an R33GTS-T (if you do and crash it you may not be covered by insurance...)

just learn how to drive in this car properly and later on go and get more power...

Waz.

It waz for future reference... to see if it would be better to buy a turbo or to get a conversion!

oh well... i'll have to wait a few more years...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...