Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cos it was NSW, you cant sent a letter of dispute to be reviewed like here in the ACT. I've tried before. You can go to court for it, and plead your case - still paying basic court costs, or you can pay the fine.

*edit* I was advised if take it to court, the judge will look at your driving history and other credentials, and there is a chance you may have your fines RAISED rather than removed.

Edited by J'son

if this one of 31 i would have just tex-screwed on to the bumper. lol

who cares if you have to drill a hole? the number covers up everything anyway. Certainly not an excuse for not attaching a plate for 4years...

Dispaying a number plate on the dash inside a high performance car is just asking for trouble IMO. Just buy a thin number plate from the motor registry and display it like I do on my R33 GTR S1 (see pic). As for the fine - I would probably just cop it and never do it again (lesson learnt). Do you really want the hassle of going to court and running the high risk of losing and then having to pay all the court costs and the original fine? Ten years time you're not going to care about any of this lol move on

post-79200-0-51118600-1331861911_thumb.jpg

Some 3M double sided tape will hold the plate on just fine. I had my GTSTs parte held on in the same spotas the above pic with double sided tape for over 2 years.just get the plastic ones made up without hoes drilled

option 1 - pay the damn fine

option 2 - pay the damn fine

option 3 - pay the damn fine and stop complaining

In terms of mounting the plate, get two pieces of metal, bend them into an "L" shape, drill holes on the bottom and the top, screw the bottom underneath the front bar and the plate to the metal. Offset it on the left or right of the front bar.

There's a boat load of adr's and shit that number plates need to comply to. Like must be parallel to the road, visible from X angle either side of the the car at Y distance from front and rear. Plate must be RTA issue and not made by ya mate at the sign shop (rapid now pick up on fake plates). Plate must be up right also not lying on your dash or on your massive fiberglass front air dam. They sell "drift spec" off centre plate brackets you screw under the edge of your bumper where you dont see, get one.

Edited by RS4-S

^ ^ ^ exactly.

In which case, the only way IMHO that you can get off is for a psychologist's report that can convince the judge that you suffer from a rare condition, "number-plate-on-front-bar phobia" or perhaps, "number-plate-on-dashboard obsession"

And just in case you are convinced that the above are suddenly plausible, it means that you're simply looking for a loophole.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...