Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have searched the forum to try and find the answer but have had no joy.

Do you know if the RB25DET Neo oil pump is different from the S1/S2 RB25DET as used in the R33 GTST? I was wondering if it was in any way superior to the ones used on R32/R33 RB25 & RB26 engines.

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394680-neo-oil-pump-question/
Share on other sites

im pretty sure that the 25 bottom end r all the same its just the head that is different and for the 32 (rb20) i think it is slightly better geared but dont quote me on it

Um. No. Neo bottom end is quite different. Block is basically the same thing. 25Neo uses the same rods as RB26. Pistons are different to plain old 25s. And I am told that the 25Neo uses an N1 oil pump too.

Well you see,

I had heard that the neo 25 had an N1 oil pump - but wanted to know if it's just another internet myth or if there is any proof?

EDIT:

It seems that:

- RB25DET S1/S2 motor uses oil pump part number 15010-5L800

- N1 Oil pump is part number 15010-24U00 that was superseeded by 15010-24U01

Might help anybody else searching in future....

- N1 Water Pump- 21010-21U26

N1 Water Pump Part Number

Edited by Guishnu

:-)

Trying to find the part number for the RB25DET Neo oil pump is like trying to get blood from a stone. Hopefully somebody on here will have access to the Nissan parts database and can look it up.

For some reason it won't let me edit my above post anymore - so...

It seems that:

- RB25DET S1/S2 motor uses oil pump part number 15010-5L800

- R34GTR RB26DETT uses oil pump part number 1501005U11 that was superseeded by 1501005U12

- N1 Oil pump is part number 15010-24U00 that was superseeded by 15010-24U01

Webbers Oil Pump Comparison Guide

http://webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60:oilpumps&catid=46:engine-mechanical&Itemid=22

Edited by Guishnu

I can also confirm that my NEO motor has an N1 pump with 77mm gears.

If your wanting to buy a new pump, please DO NOT buy a brand new N1 or any other RB25DET, RB20DET etc oil pump. They fail regularly. For some reason all pumps after a particular year of manufacture seem to fail prematurely. Some people say its around 2005 ish.

I believe the housings are ok, but the gears seem to be weaker. I would say a new pump with billet gears would be ok.

That's why I reused my old N1 pump. I opened it up and checked everything and and everything looked good and the tolerances were all in spec so why not reuse it. I added the crank collar though.

I can also confirm that my NEO motor has an N1 pump with 77mm gears.

If your wanting to buy a new pump, please DO NOT buy a brand new N1 or any other RB25DET, RB20DET etc oil pump. They fail regularly. For some reason all pumps after a particular year of manufacture seem to fail prematurely. Some people say its around 2005 ish.

I believe the housings are ok, but the gears seem to be weaker. I would say a new pump with billet gears would be ok.

So we seem to have some conflicting data here chaps.

The Nissan EPC says that it's 150105L800 or an RB25DET S1/S2 pump.

But people have opened them up and said that it's a proper N1 pump which means that is should be part number 15010-24U00 or 15010-24U01.

So what gives?

should replace the old pump with a new one anyway. i wouldnt run a old oil pump on a rebuilt motor.

N1 pumps now are cheap as now, dont forget the oil pump collar for the crank!

problem is the original pump is probably going to be more reliable than new n1 pump. as others have said the best setup without going a full aftermarket pump (jun, nitto etc) is to replace the gears with billet ones and use a collar.

as stated before

http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3944-rb25det/engine/150/15010/

the r34 is listed as having the r33 pump number

also, if the pump hasen't broken yet, why would you replace it with one that have been reported to fail quite often?

the new n1 pump in my car has been fine so far for 18 months now with over 4-6 trackdays in that time *fingers crossed*

its hit and miss with this, there have been people without an issue who ran this and still going strong after many years, and then there are the unfortunate who have failed in the first 5000km or so.

as stated before

http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3944-rb25det/engine/150/15010/

the r34 is listed as having the r33 pump number

also, if the pump hasen't broken yet, why would you replace it with one that have been reported to fail quite often?

what can i say... the epc data is wrong. they are most certainly different from that of a s1/2 style rb25 pump

If the Neo oil pump are actually the 77mm OD N1 style gears, then I would be going Reimax gears.

I put Reimax gears in my old N1 pump but if I was to do it again, I would source a standard RB26 pump and go with the 81mm OD Reimax gears.

Cost me $430 delivered from RHDJapan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...