Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Overheating

southern_tango
 Share

Recommended Posts

southern_tango Proficient

southern_tango

Posted
Posted

Hello my stagea fellas ,I have a new problem with my car ,most of the time I drive it in tiptronic the water temp gauge goes up ;even when I been cruising on the freeway (no gear changes all the time,like on traffic).

While I drive it on auto the temp is ok...could it be because I relocated the transcooler to the side?Thanks for any word of advise...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395064-stagea-overheating/
Share on other sites
import_zone Community Regular

import_zone

Posted
Posted

Shouldn't change anything. Have u done any coolant change or open radiator cap at all? Wats it coolant level in reservoir? Nd when hot can u feel any boiling from top radiator hose? Sounds more like low coolant. As I drive all the time in tiptronic nd never have a cooling issue. Maybe check if u have any coolant leaks as well

southern_tango Proficient

southern_tango

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Coolant level looks ok,i took some air of the system using the cocacola bottle in the radiator cap about 3 months ago,I'm thinking about Kiwi suggestion but I nearly always had bad experiences with mechanics ...everything been going wrong since timing belt change(thanks,known workshop...)

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Coolant level looks ok,i took some air of the system using the cocacola bottle in the radiator cap about 3 months ago,I'm thinking about Kiwi suggestion but I nearly always had bad experiences with mechanics ...everything been going wrong since timing belt change(thanks,known workshop...)

Don't take it to a mechanic! I'm a great believer in specialists - radiator, brakes, auto sparky etc. if you have another car you can easily whip the radiator out of yours and take it to a radiator shop where they can take the top tank off and have a look inside and either clean it out or replace it.
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Don't take it to a mechanic! I'm a great believer in specialists - radiator, brakes, auto sparky etc. if you have another car you can easily whip the radiator out of yours and take it to a radiator shop where they can take the top tank off and have a look inside and either clean it out or replace it.

+1

4bidn1 Mentor

4bidn1

Posted
Posted

1)have the system pressure tested for leaks and c02 test

2) have water pump flow checked

3) try a simple rad flush like mukout/ have radiator flushed. careful of cost as quality alloy ones 42 -52mm think can be found for around 250-300 (excellent cooling)

4) when refilling system make sure the mechanic use a type A coolant as most even specialists use a type B very little if any glycol in type b i recomend and use nulon concentrate (green) type A it has like 1058G per liter of glycol much more than other brands .

see how ya go from there .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...