Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi. I'm OzyNick and new to this forum.

We have a 1990 (ish) Skyline Automatic.

It's always run well and given no trouble.

Coming home from work the other day it started making a loud tapping or clacking noise. Imagine a small jack hammer or some metal object interfering with metal spokes. I'm sorry but it's best description I can come up with. The sound seems to be roughly under the driver or further back. It's definitly NOT the motor. I imagined maybe the diff?

For the little time we drove it, the car seems fine. Accelerates smoothly, no vibration of any kind, stops fine. Except for the evil sounding noise it seems fine.

The problem is this. I need to get the car to our mechanic, about 10 - 15 easy klm away. But is it a good idea to drive it that far?

Can anyone here at least suggest what the fault might be? And could (should) the car be driven.

I know it's hard not seeing and hearing it your self but maybe the symptoms sound familier?

Thanks in advance for any help at all!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395425-clacking-noise-from-underneath-car/
Share on other sites

Hi. I'm OzyNick and new to this forum.

We have a 1990 (ish) Skyline Automatic.

It's always run well and given no trouble.

Coming home from work the other day it started making a loud tapping or clacking noise. Imagine a small jack hammer or some metal object interfering with metal spokes. I'm sorry but it's best description I can come up with. The sound seems to be roughly under the driver or further back. It's definitly NOT the motor. I imagined maybe the diff?

For the little time we drove it, the car seems fine. Accelerates smoothly, no vibration of any kind, stops fine. Except for the evil sounding noise it seems fine.

The problem is this. I need to get the car to our mechanic, about 10 - 15 easy klm away. But is it a good idea to drive it that far?

Can anyone here at least suggest what the fault might be? And could (should) the car be driven.

I know it's hard not seeing and hearing it your self but maybe the symptoms sound familier?

Thanks in advance for any help at all!

Does the noise speed up and slow down with the speed of the car?

If so; you might've got a bit of wire caught around the tailshaft.

If you have a set of ramps or a jack, look underneath. If not; park with the two left side wheels up on a gutter and slide underneath for a look. Could be really simple.

Edited by Daleo

I've checked that already Daleo and nothing there. However your spot on about the sound, it sounds just like that!

Does the noise speed up and slow down with the speed of the car?

If so; you might've got a bit of wire caught around the tailshaft.

If you have a set of ramps or a jack, look underneath. If not; park with the two left side wheels up on a gutter and slide underneath for a look. Could be really simple.

I've checked that already Daleo and nothing there. However your spot on about the sound, it sounds just like that!

Might be a tailshaft uni joint or a centre bearing.

I had a centre bearing in my old R31 that would do that only in reverse and only when the car was stone cold.

As the joint warmed up; the tiny amount of grease still inside would move around and quieten the noise.

Look for grease nipples on the uni's, give them some love; if no nipples; you might have to undo the shaft to check for wear. A dry uni can be hard to diagnose until it starts to wear significantly.

Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...