Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

-5's are still available Scott.

Doo doo I have the skirts here but its such a hassle to post such a fragile item expecially getting the strength in a box that size. I don't want to send a few hundred $ worth and have you say their damaged and want a refund. I posted a front bar to QLD a while back and by the time I boxed it, then strengthened the box plus driving to the depot I was fairly over it for 2 or 3 hundred dollars. It arrive in perfect condition.

I can't believe somebody in Vic hasn't bought them since there genuine and rare.

gdawg there isn't any real story to the motor. I imported the car which said it had N1 turbos. They were boxed in the boot on arrival. Standard turbos came on the engine. I had some adj cam gears made and fitted them. Same as Nispro cam gears. I fitted the N1 for a few years but they were laggy so I bought -5 thinking they were smaller than -7. I was wrong. The -5 made the same power as the N1 but earlier with 4 psi less boost. The car has only done about 10,000kms since importing it 6 or more years ago. It rarely got driven. Most of the old SAU club can confirm this.

The turbos have no axial shaft play. There is some sideplay but I was told from Ben at Racepace upon purchase he said that all of the ball bearing Garrett turbos get a little movement and then don't get any worse. These haven't changed at all since I've owned them. One of the comp wheels has a few little nicks, they won't effect performance or reliability.

My job involves Rolls Royce 400hp gas turbines for helicopters to General Electric 63500hp aeroderivative turbines for power generation. So what I'm getting at is I know a fair bit about compressors and damage limits.

They can come with water lines if required. I was going to keep them for the engine but if you need them thats okay.

The shell comes has everything minus seats, engine and a gearbox at the moment. I'd take $5k for the shell as is with intercooler etc with all electrics and almost new brakes. This is a firm price for the car almost complete as it saves me the hassle of selling parts individually. I'd make a few more thousand on parts stripping it but I don't think the time it takes is worth it.

Sorry Mark the interior is all there in excellent condition apart from the seats. Wheels only cost me $100 so not worried.

Shells with no brakes diffs or frontend panels, engine bay competely stripped with half of the interior missing sell for $2500.

Edited by Rowdyr32

Kilos if your seriours and not a time waster like 90% of the messages I get. You can have it for $2800 with no interior (not just missing seats) it will have door+rear cards and carpet but thats it, no brakes, wheels or any of the associated components required to run the engine as I stated in the add. It will also be missing front upper arms as it has Cusco arms atm and I thought I had a standard set of arms but I can't find them. Also missing a RH castor rod. I'll just fabricate something to get it moving.

Edited by Rowdyr32
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...