Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need to get some hub centric rings for the GTR.

Can anyone confirm that the stock GTR32 hub bore is a 60.1mm?

While I'm here, can anyone also confirm that Rays CE28s are a 73.1mm bore?

I'm assuming that the hub centric rings are to locate/centre the bore only?

Lastly, will any alloy hub centric ring be ok? There are also nylon/plastic ones but I would have thought the alloy ones would be better.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395735-r32-gtr-hub-bore-centre-measurement/
Share on other sites

You can easily measure your hubs. I would have thought they were 66.1

My Rays TE37 are 73.1 centre bore

I used two pairs of these: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/other/auction-459726777.htm

You can easily measure your hubs. I would have thought they were 66.1

My Rays TE37 are 73.1 centre bore

I used two pairs of these: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/other/auction-459726777.htm

Thanks KiwiRS4T. I think you're right, I misread it 66.1 (too lazy to take wheel off and measure the hub).

Cheers

And I prefer alloy hub rings. Plastic ones seem to do the job but are likely to break if the wheels are on and off regularly. I'm sure either works fine once the wheel is on, because like a dowel, they only locate the wheel, not hold it.

Also, make sure there is a slight taper at the top of the ring to help fitment.

And I prefer alloy hub rings. Plastic ones seem to do the job but are likely to break if the wheels are on and off regularly. I'm sure either works fine once the wheel is on, because like a dowel, they only locate the wheel, not hold it.

Also, make sure there is a slight taper at the top of the ring to help fitment.

thanks duncan

i'm getting some alloy ones from japan - kics kyo-ei (!?) hopefully they have the taper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...