Manual Boost Controller Problem!

[roonVR]

Hey guys,

I Went ahead and bought a turbosmart manual boost controller today. I turned the boost knob all the way to negative and the gauge reads 10 PSI. However, the car runs like a piece of poo and I cant get it back down to stock 7 PSI. Any ideas on how to fix this? I don't want to revert back to the standard boost solenoid

Thanks,

[Moodles2]

Probably R&R at 10psi (rich and retard), as for not getting 7psi you might have the hoses on the wrong way

[roonVR]

Probably R&R at 10psi (rich and retard), as for not getting 7psi you might have the hoses on the wrong way

Not worried about the car running like poo at 10 PSI since it needs a tune, just want it back at 7 PSI hoses seem to be in the right order.

[Got a Pulsar]

Perhaps some pics of how it is connected would help for confirmation.

[GH05T]

The extra piping and any other mods might make 10 your new standard

[roonVR]

Here is a picture of how I installed it.

Edited March 25, 2012 by roonVR

[Ad's]

I don't understand. You buy a boost controller to increade boost, so you buy one to run factory boost? Or am i reading it all wrong..

Don't bother increasing the boost on a rb25 unless you are getting a tune. Just stick with the factory solenoid until you get it tuned etc.

[roonVR]

I don't understand. You buy a boost controller to increade boost, so you buy one to run factory boost? Or am i reading it all wrong..

Don't bother increasing the boost on a rb25 unless you are getting a tune. Just stick with the factory solenoid until you get it tuned etc.

I bought a boost controller so I can tune the car at higher boost down the road. Isn't it possible to run stock boost on an aftermarket boost controller?

[RSFOURDayz]

Don't bother increasing the boost on a rb25 unless you are getting a tune.

Is this right? I was planning on upping my boost to about 10psi. If i do that i'm gonna need to get it tuned? Are the stock computers even tuneable or do you need to get nistune?

I new to all this stuff.

[Ad's]

On a rb20 upping the boost a little would be fine but on a rb25 they are shit and all of them do it. At around the 10psi mark if that some cars are different it hits R&R as Moodles2 said. No point doing it on a 25 as they run like shit and id probally say it would make more power on stock boost, if you are going to increase the boost get a tune.

And no factory 33 ecus aren't tuneable.

[RSFOURDayz]

I'll have a 34 in a few days which is what i was gonna do it to... so no point?

[roonVR]

I'll have a 34 in a few days which is what i was gonna do it to... so no point?

Stop hijacking the thread. Use the search button up top.

[Got a Pulsar]

I am running 10psi which at first was using my fantastic twin boost solenoids trick but have since got me an R32 actuator.

I think I hit R&R once but cleaned the AFM and have had no problems since.

RB25det with R34 smic, RB20 actuator, Stock Turbo, Stock ECU (I think) and 3" Cat back exhaust.

^^^Looks like you have it hooked up right^^^

Try running a hose from the cooler pipe to the actuator to get back to 7psi and put the boost T in your glovebox til you need it.

[roonVR]

I am running 10psi which at first was using my fantastic twin boost solenoids trick but have since got me an R32 actuator.

I think I hit R&R once but cleaned the AFM and have had no problems since.

RB25det with R34 smic, RB20 actuator, Stock Turbo, Stock ECU (I think) and 3" Cat back exhaust.

^^^Looks like you have it hooked up right^^^

Try running a hose from the cooler pipe to the actuator to get back to 7psi and put the boost T in your glovebox til you need it.

So there's no need to plug all the hoses back to the boost solenoid? If not i'll run a hose from the IC pipe to the wastegate and see how that goes.

[Got a Pulsar]

I actually kept the first little hose coming from the cooler pipe as it has the restrictor in it (dunno if it matters too much) and using a straight connector, joined another hose to it which goes to the actuator. No Worries.

As long as you have the other little hose blocked off like it looks like you do, it should be all good. Actuator pressure only.

Edited March 25, 2012 by Not a Pulsar

[RSFOURDayz]

Stop hijacking the thread. Use the search button up top.

I did search mate, that's how i got here.. puk me.

[roonVR]

I actually kept the first little hose coming from the cooler pipe as it has the restrictor in it (dunno if it matters too much) and using a straight connector, joined another hose to it which goes to the actuator. No Worries.

As long as you have the other little hose blocked off like it looks like you do, it should be all good. Actuator pressure only.

Thanks for the help mate, joined up the two hoses as you instructed, put my T-piece in the glove-box and now it's back to scratch

[Got a Pulsar]

Ha ha. good stuff.

I'm slowly clawing my way out of noobville but I try to help if I can.

Sometimes I like to help the humans.

[KiwiRS4T]

I'll have a 34 in a few days which is what i was gonna do it to... so no point?

R34 can be Nistuned - read the nistune website and the threads on Nistune

R33 cannot - see above

S1 Stagea is a major problem if auto - ref to the Stagea section.