Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys ,

i have a bolt on spacer on the front to clear breaks which was already on my car when i purchased , and iv just noticed it . has anyone got the tool to remove it , or know where i can get one to take it off ? it looks different to the ones iv seen going around. maybe a hammer and chisel worst case scenario ?

any help would be muchly appreciated.

post-32277-0-03881200-1332719711_thumb.jpg

Edited by sky017
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395932-removing-bolt-on-spacer/
Share on other sites

SNOQPY's idea looks best - measure the things up and go to a second hand tool place and go through their angle grinder keys - alternatively go to a big mag wheel retailer and see if they have a tool (never seen the like myself).

yeah guys i did use a grinder style key , and they just wont budge . im assuming they would have been on the car for a fair few years as they were clearly put on in japan or where so .

iv soaked them in wd40 . tried hammer and chisel . then yesterday i modified a grinder key and no luck , it just wants to slip out . i need the 4 stud type tool

honestly anyone who has the key . i am getting so desperate now .

worst case is that you cut them off and replace all the wheel studds. All depends on how confident you are with 5" grinder and a cutting disc. I would personally cut the studds off flush with the spacer then cut down through the front face through middle of the stud and the funky locking things.

once you split the lock it should come off easy. At the expense of the studs tho. some thing tells me that if there locked up that much you would probly want to replace the studs any way.

regards

Chris

not being a smart arse but have you called around to wheel & tyre/suspension shops and asked them?

I suspect they would have the smarts/tools necessary to get them off, or at the least be able to find a way to do this. They've probably encontered this in the past anyway.

Im thinking if youve tried

- soaking of WD40 a few times

- good whack of the hammer directly onto those flat nut things...

- jamming something in one of those holes and the slam of hammer on the end of that

with still no joy, it maybe time to look at drilling the bolts out.

the good parts is you dont need to accurate, you can just slaughter them...

remember of course to cut the bolts down flsuh and drill from there...

Im not sure it would be easy to cut straight through the whole face with a cutting disc..

if you have an oxy hand might be easier just to blow a hole and stick an old chisel down the side of those pesky nuts while its still hot...

either way your gonna have fun...

Straight down the middle of the stud

Cut studs flush with face

Centre punch middle of end of stids

Dril with smallish dril first

Dril again in same hole with drill larger than stud

Use decent metal drills ones for hardened steel would make it a heap easier, dont overheat your drill bit, some drilling compound wil help too

Straight down the middle of the stud

Cut studs flush with face

Centre punch middle of end of stids

Dril with smallish dril first

Dril again in same hole with drill larger than stud

Use decent metal drills ones for hardened steel would make it a heap easier, dont overheat your drill bit, some drilling compound wil help too

If you're going to go to this much trouble and still have to replace the studs; why not just push a 1mm or 0.8mm cutting disc on a 4" grinder straight into the side of the spacer, (Parallel to the rotor face) about 3mm out from the mounting face on the disc?

That will cut throught the stud, just below the nut holding it on.

Throw spacers & studs in the bin.:thumbsup:

You'll do it in about a quarter of the time it will take with a drill, and you need minimal accuracy

Cause u can probably use the studs that currently hd the wheels on

If you cut the the spacer you cut those studs as well

Us i dont think i would enjoy cutting thru it with cutting wheel on a grinder

i must say i will try hang out for the tool . iv been out there for 30 mins drilling one out , then try with hammer and chisel , still doesnt want to move... more wd40 is sinking in now , so ill attempt it again.

daelo , i dont think that will work without interfearing with the standard studs

i dont men to weld on to the stud, i mean weld to the nut that is stuck.

If you weld an old bolt or anything similar to it, then put a pole or something over the top for leverage to turn it, or knock it with a hammer. Have done it a few times on stripped nuts that are too far in the wheel to get at.

if you do it this way, weld the bolt or what even you use at an angle that will clear the other studs when turning to make it easier for your self.

post-54283-0-48083600-1333368651_thumb.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...