Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Bolt On Spacer

sky017
 Share

Recommended Posts

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Straight down the middle of the stud

Cut studs flush with face

Centre punch middle of end of stids

Dril with smallish dril first

Dril again in same hole with drill larger than stud

Use decent metal drills ones for hardened steel would make it a heap easier, dont overheat your drill bit, some drilling compound wil help too

Cause u can probably use the studs that currently hd the wheels on

If you cut the the spacer you cut those studs as well

Us i dont think i would enjoy cutting thru it with cutting wheel on a grinder

I don't understand; of course cutting through the side of the spacer and stud will damage it.

Explain to me how cutting 10mm off them, leaving them too short to use later on, and then drilling down the centre of the stud is going to leave it intact?rolleyes.gif

Are you suggesting drilling through the captive studs in the spacer? You might as well drill a hole in the window for all the good that will do.

Why wouldn't you enjoy cutting metal with a metal cutting disc on a grinder? That's what they're made to do; I'm not suggesting he uses a Chainsaw...

i must say i will try hang out for the tool . iv been out there for 30 mins drilling one out , then try with hammer and chisel , still doesnt want to move... more wd40 is sinking in now , so ill attempt it again.

daelo , i dont think that will work without interfearing with the standard studs

As above ;

The whole point of my post was, that if you were prepared to sacrifice the studs (which you will by drilling down the centre; I assure you); my way will take about 10 minutes a side, versus about 3 hours drilling down the centre of the studs

By the time you've chiselled or welded near these spacers; you're going to throw the spacers in the bin anyway.

New wheel studs are like $5 each. how much fuel and hassle have you spent already, driving all over looking for a tool no-one has?

I think you might be missing the point a little...whistling.gif

Edited by Daleo
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

OK if it were me and I couldn't get a tool anywhere I would go to one of several engineering shops I know and get them to make me one. All you need is a great long lever with prongs sticking out to put on the holes. If you show an engineer ( as in metalworker /welder/fabricator ) the problem I am sure they could whip something up in under an hour which would do the job.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

OK if it were me and I couldn't get a tool anywhere I would go to one of several engineering shops I know and get them to make me one. All you need is a great long lever with prongs sticking out to put on the holes. If you show an engineer ( as in metalworker /welder/fabricator ) the problem I am sure they could whip something up in under an hour which would do the job.

I think the problem will be the cost of the item; if I were to fabricate a tool to do that, it would be close to the cost of a new set of studs. Why bother at that point?

there is two sets of wheels studs here people...

one set that he can destroy to get the spacer off and another set that if he does cut or damage can be used once he removes this crap

I'm not sure you really understand what's going on here. You do realise the longer set are only pressed into the spacer? Cutting these will not release the spacer.

The ones that have the recessed nuts (the ones that require the tool) on them are the issue.

Replacing wheel studs is a simple job; these ones are likely to be corroded anyway; that's why I'm suggesting cutting his losses and just scrapping the spacers and studs.

At the end of the day; he's 11 days down since the first post, and the spacers are still where they started out.

Why worry about wrecking something you're going to chuck in the bin? It's just stupid.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

How's it going mate? Got them off yet? Must say I'm leaning towards the directness of Dale's approach - angle grinder, eye protection, ear protection..... away you go. Don't worry about the oem studs - they are inexpensive and simple to replace.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...