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ok, so i plugged the nistuned z32 ecu back in and recorded the dash with aircon on and aircon off. I also recorded the standard ecu with aircon on and aircon off.

This is with the standard ecu plugged in

This is with the z32 ecu plugged in (note the exhaust temp lamp)

The idle with the z32 ecu in is higher and it was recorded second after i had already had the car idling for a minute or 2 on the standard ecu. With the air con on with the z32, the car doesnt sound like it does with the standard ecu.

I took the car for a spin with the z32 ecu plugged in and revved it out to about 5500rpm in second and third and it didnt stutter or go into limp mode at all. My consult display also shows no fault codes with the z32 ecu plugged in.

We put the Series 2 33 changes in based on information from another customer when they installed in their vehicle. The main problem is I dont have a S2 wiring diagram/pinout to compare against. Yeah I was thinking series 1.5 also

Anyway been going through their emails back from Aug 2010 and found this page (attached)

So pin 32 is the Exhaust Over Temp lamp on the S2 RB25. It connects to the Check Engine Light output on the Z32 ECU. So effectively your exhaust temp light is the check engine light output from the Z32 ECU now

Question now is what is the Check Engine Light output on the S2 RB25 pinout? I'll contact the customer who bought the NZ workshop manual and find out

post-607-0-35565200-1333166215_thumb.png

Edited by darkhalf

In the video with the z32 plugged in and the a/c on the idle doesnt seem to go up a bit like the name fast idle control device dictates it should. Then, when its turned off it jumps up abit then settles again, so i dont know if the FICD is actually working or not.

On the pinout diagram for the z32 I cant even see exhaust temp lamp so I guess it doesnt use one and which ever pin is the r33 series 2 exhaust temp lamp on my loom is plugged in to something it perhaps shouldnt be on the z32 ecu and its turning the lamp on.

EDIT: Just read Matt from nistunes post above. Let me know when you hear back from them Matt.

Edited by Mitcho_7

I've got those diagrams above (link on second one broken)

www.gweeds.net/nismodore/rb25diagram.jpg

The ECU pinout from the same site has the Series 1 mappings for both lights

Series 1 uses

Pin 32 = Check engine light

Pin 33 = Exhaust temp light

which ever pin is the r33 series 2 exhaust temp lamp on my loom is plugged into something it shouldnt be on the z32 ecu and its turning the lamp on

Series 2 uses

Pin 32 = Exhaust temp light

Pin ?? = check engine light

Z32 ECU has no exhaust temp light output. Its Pin 32 output is 'check engine light' as previously posted

Series 1 uses

Pin 32 = Check engine light

Pin 33 = Exhaust temp light

Series 2 uses

Pin 32 = Exhaust temp light

Pin ?? = check engine light

Z32 ECU has no exhaust temp light output. Its Pin 32 output is 'check engine light' as previously posted

So essentially the exhaust temp light with the z32 ecu installed how it is at the moment is actually the check engine light?

If that is the case and the check engine light is now through the cat light disconnect the tps and check it to see if it's using the standard 1.

And if it was using the cat light why is it throwing the light with no codes, I reckon pull the plug for the cat sensor first and see where you stand.

Edited by Stevoss

If that is the case and the check engine light is now through the cat light disconnect the tps and check it to see if it's using the standard 1.

I have no idea how to do this and dont really want to be pulling out wires etc as the car is also my daily and I will need it next week

And if it was using the cat light why is it throwing the light with no codes, I reckon pull the plug for the cat sensor first and see where you stand.

You raise a good point about why the lights on with no codes, im only going off of what my ecu consult display from ecutalk.com says when I go into faults.

The good news is its easy and very quick to connect and disconnect the tps, you just look at the top of the motor and where the throttle butterfly is that moves when you push the accelerator peddle it has a small black box on the other side, you push in the little tab on the plug and pull the back half to release, it will log this as the fault code and display the dash light, you can clear that with consult after.

The good news is its easy and very quick to connect and disconnect the tps, you just look at the top of the motor and where the throttle butterfly is that moves when you push the accelerator peddle it has a small black box on the other side, you push in the little tab on the plug and pull the back half to release, it will log this as the fault code and display the dash light, you can clear that with consult after.

You are brave man ..! Or was the ECU tuned?

Also more on the topic, what is the colour of your Crank Angle Sensor?

(black housing, or metal?)

I took the car for a spin with the z32 ecu plugged in and revved it out to about 5500rpm in second and third and it didnt stutter or go into limp mode at all. My consult display also shows no fault codes with the z32 ecu plugged in.

Edited by Torques

You are brave man ..! Or was the ECU tuned?

Also more on the topic, what is the colour of your Crank Angle Sensor?

(black housing, or metal?)

dont know what you mean? the only way i know of it working is the z32 ecu with the nistune daughter board running the standard ecr33 rb25det tune.

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