Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

take the fuel inlet hose off the engine. turn the car on and see if fuel comes out. also how sure are you there is fuel in the car. i work for racv and you would be supprised by the amount of times we have gone out to a car that the customer thought the fuel pump had died and.the swear they only.just put fuel in it only to get it back to the shop, pull out the pump and find an empty tank. next thing would be to check you afm. im sure someone on here could provide you with the voltages at the plug or if you know some with the same car see if you can borrow it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396433-not-running/#findComment-6304078
Share on other sites

sorry for the lack of info

soooooo got some tools and done some basic tests..

fuel ok

fuel pressure ok

injector pulse ok

spark ok

even got the injectors flowed and tested just to make sure the wernt blocked

checked to see if the cat had failed and was blocking

problem is still occuring which leads me to belive its an electical problem

any ideas??

if it was the maf it would still run with a lilimt of 2500rpm becoz its in safty mode??

Edited by Benny123r33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396433-not-running/#findComment-6310461
Share on other sites

an

take the fuel inlet hose off the engine. turn the car on and see if fuel comes out. also how sure are you there is fuel in the car. i work for racv and you would be supprised by the amount of times we have gone out to a car that the customer thought the fuel pump had died and.the swear they only.just put fuel in it only to get it back to the shop, pull out the pump and find an empty tank. next thing would be to check you afm. im sure someone on here could provide you with the voltages at the plug or if you know some with the same car see if you can borrow it

soooooo got some tools and done some basic tests..

fuel ok

fuel pressure ok

injector pulse ok

spark ok

even got the injectors flowed and tested just to make sure the wernt blocked

checked to see if the cat had failed and was blocking

problem is still occuring which leads me to belive its an electical problem

any ideas??

if it was the maf it would still run with a lilimt of 2500rpm becoz its in safty mode??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396433-not-running/#findComment-6310471
Share on other sites

an

soooooo got some tools and done some basic tests..

fuel ok

fuel pressure ok

injector pulse ok

spark ok

even got the injectors flowed and tested just to make sure the wernt blocked

checked to see if the cat had failed and was blocking

problem is still occuring which leads me to belive its an electical problem

any ideas??

if it was the maf it would still run with a lilimt of 2500rpm becoz its in safty mode??

Unplug the afm and start the car. Doubt it's the problem though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396433-not-running/#findComment-6310592
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Get a stand alone ecu.

None of this piggy back bs

bingo.

So, the usual advice. Do some research on who are the tuners in your area (you dont want to drive 2hrs + just to drop a car off for tuning of if any troubleshooting is required afterwards) and then work out who is the best and what is their prefferred platform. Of course cost is an issue but you usually get what you pay for and a bad tune = the need for a new motor = prob not worth skimping $200 for the cheaper tuner... In a similar vein, avoid Mine's tuned ECU's. not going into why here.

General consensus is that PowerFC or Z32+nistune is the way to go. Take into account whether having an aftermarket computer puts you in easy defect territory too (if so- nistune)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396433-not-running/#findComment-6339786
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Hi All,

I'm a noob so I'm not sure if I'm on the right thread or not, but here goes..

Last night I did the mod where you ground out the boost solenoid on an R33GTSt.

Well I read the entire thread on that before attempting it, & then did it as specified.

When I went to test it on my way to work this morning it would not rev over 2500rpm, just kept coughing until i dropped the revs below 2500.

I freaked out (i only just got the car), & put it back to standard, but it still wont rev over 2500rpm..

Have I broken something? Can I fix this?

So far I have reset the ECU as specified (disconnect batt & pump brakes)

I hot wired the solenoid to see if it works (it does)

& I tried running the car with the solenoid grounded & ungrounded.

Still only 2500 rpm..

Please HELP!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396433-not-running/#findComment-6380612
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...