Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 6 of them - 3 for the Gtst's and variants (GTT's etc) and 2 for R32 and R33 GTR's - they are great, but you need an interpretor for the text as its all in japanese.

Christian.

I bought em for 300 Yen each, got most of the 32 n 33 ones, and I've translated half of em... now if only I can get around to puttin em onto a website. Registered www.japimports.info, but need hosting :thumbsup:

I'm waiting for my latest purchase to come thru... RB20 and RB25 DET ECU reprogramming guide + ECU Maps. mmmm where my eeprom programmer at?

also just bought this last night...

keneth555-img600x450-1082534773rimg0316.jpg

keneth555-img450x600-1082534784rimg0318.jpg

keneth555-img450x600-1082534790rimg0317.jpg

Ahh wish I had more time to translate all of em... my god... Bought the last one for the tuning guide more than anything.

Next up on my to buy list are the R32 Series 2 and R33 Series 1 service manuals, that's worth about $200 in japan and they're about 2cm thick.

Rob you can borrow mine if you wanna have a read

oh and has anyone else noticed that after you read a few of these books, you start reading english books formt he back as well? My mates have busted me doing this and its quite embarrasing.

here's a sample of my lil collection...

mag_1.jpg

mag_2.jpg

This one I had to have, coz I own a V Selection 2 GTS

mag_3.jpg

mag_4.jpg

mag_5.jpg

My most prized book, the RB20/RB25 ECU tuning Guide

mag_6.jpg

And the version for GTSt's n stuff that I have

mag_7.jpg

I tried in the DIY section with My R32 classification guide, but you really need to layout pictures n stuff, there's only so much you can do in a thread format.

I don't mind building it as part of the SAU website (I guess I could con PranK into givin me some webspace, adn then I can design a proper thing.

For example...

scan_10077.jpg

This page is part of a dummies guide to Engine parts in an RB26 and what can be achieved by replacing each part with aftermarket parts etc.

It's just a bit of a hassle to put it in a thread based form rather than a table format illustration.

Rest assured I will put it all up once its sufficiently translated, just takes time (esp since my Kanji skills aren't too good and have to rely on my GF to do most of the complex words and she ain't too thrilled when I pull out car mags when she's tryin to spend quality time :( ).

np rob i'll bring a revspeed around for ya to flick thru at the meeting. You'll have to be careful tho, most of my mags have the staples taken out so I can scan em :D

prankeh, email sent...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...