Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm paranoid about security and performance on my system. I clear cache of my system (not just internet settings), defrag the hard drive, perform health checks and diagnostics on a regular basis.

yep paranoid, or you could also say that stuff does bugger all... ghost the sys drive and re-format on a scheduled clock from your home server setup once a month... oh what you dont have a home server???

seriously defrag and healths checks are so 12yr old student in 1999 kinda stuff.... you would be better off running benchmarks and when you see a major change in results you know there is a prob, quicker than a defrag or health checks... plus why defrag an SSD? what you dont have SSD???

back to the 600hp turbo...

Dont worry about finding a turbo to buy, goto an expensive workshop and go with whatever they recommend after you tell them what you want in terms of power and the cars usage...

Im actually serious, because as you say your not into cars that much but you want something faster by the sounds of it, so let a professional choose the turbo and gear they can give you a good result with...

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I didnt want to start a thread about which to get, i just wanted to identify the kit i had found at $3500, as i said all the other kits i found were 5k+ and didnt realise that there were so many compatible.

you do realise the thread title and your question is relative to posting 'How do I go about a sex change?' on a neo nazi forum...

Whats wrong with my thread title? I asked the question would anyone know what it is

I have a single SSD for OS and 4x 1TB HDD in Raid 10 which yes get defragged and i perform benchmarking however health checks help detect problems before they become serious. ghosting is a bad idea at how often i change hardware and drivers..

I'm into cars i just don't know a lot yet. I have been involved in all the processes so far for installations in the car to try and learn. I have taken advice from people here as well as professionals such as getting the Haltech as opposed to a Power FC, i dont know the difference but they advised me it was the better option for when i do turbo upgrade.

I don't get why your so snappy when im just trying to learn. I want to be involved in the selection process as well as the install (i dont do anything in the installs but learn),

I don't just want to go in and say hey whats best and not understand, hence why ive been looking at kits etc. I was just curious of the kit i had found so i could continue my research on my upgrade options.

because your looking for a turbo to buy the wrong way...

yes learn, like when you build a computer, you dont search for parts you know nothing about, you research then select parts based on gain knowledge and then build

you say Im building a gaming machine, what makes a good gaming machine?

or I need a business computer what makes a good business computer?

or I net a net browsing computer for my grandma what will make it good for her?

same with modifying your car, I want a drifter or I want a street car, or I want a car that runs good at the drag stip or I want to do some circuit work...

so dont choose a turbo based on a power figure or price tag, but one that does what you need it for...

What do you want from your car?

your searching for a turbo before you have the knowledge, thats whats annoying...

there is a heap of info on here from people building cars for all sorts of purposes, they have been there and done it... sort of like a recipe book for skylines...

here you go, a turbo kit capable of 600HP (this does not include supporting mods such as injectors, ECU, AFM, intercooler, full exhaust, fuel pump, boost controller, labour to fit & tune, new clutch) Good luck with it.

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category50_1.htm

Turbo Kit for Nissan RB20/25 High Mount with GT35 600hp

This is a complete turbo bolt on kit for an RB20 or RB25 engine, including a stainless steel high mount manifold, a GT30, 35 or GT3540 turbo, a Turbosmart Ultra 38mm wastegate, water and oil kit and various clamps studs etc.

Its great value.

This Kit is also offered with a Turbosmart 45mm Wastegate for an extra $200. Include your upgrade to Turbosmart in the description field when ordering.

OUR Price:

$3,500.00

inc GST within Australia

because your looking for a turbo to buy the wrong way...

Then why not just say this in the first place instead of being sarcastic?

I am researching to find out what exactly i want, im looking up different kits of different price ranges. I have been reading on here.

I have a couple of turbos i was looking at and wanted to find the 3.5k one for a comparison. Im not looking for hand outs but just a nudge in the right direction.

More performance, street driving mainly but i want to go down to the tracks and try it out.

If you want to laugh, my first Car (prior to having the Skyline) was a hyundai excel so i have not quite ever experienced performance or high speed driving.

ok but have you searched SAU to see what others have done...?

Pls tell us your not wanting 600hp?

3071 or 3076 or kando or hypergear or get something really nice like a HKS 2835 ProS

search those terms for pricing and your done...

look through kando and hypergear threads on here for the models and stuff I dont know the models for those brands...

Yes i have been looking at the post for mods people have done and their dyno results etc, working my way very slowly through them... No i do not necessarily want 600HP that was just one of the kits i had found during my research. There is much more research required.

Yes i have been looking at the post for mods people have done and their dyno results etc, working my way very slowly through them... No i do not necessarily want 600HP that was just one of the kits i had found during my research. There is much more research required.

The turbo HP rating means nothing in terms of what to expect.... Its the supporting mods that are going to make the combo work....

Do all the power basic mods and learn to drive the car before you go upgrading a turbo.... 300whp is going to impress you in a daily if you came from an Excel.... 400whp is going to cost you a LOT more than $5k to achieve on an R34.......TRUST ME!

Sounds to me like OP plays Japanese school girl on the family computer.

Seriously though, what trim is your vehicle in at the moment? Stock? If so, then anything above 200rwkw is probably going to feel fast for you and keep you relatively distracted from hentai for around 3k. Given you confess to not knowing a great deal about cars or modifying, I recommend rocking up to a meet and asking for rides in peoples cars...note the power figures of cars you like the feel of and then ask them what they did to achieve that. Then pay a workshop to carry out the same work to your car, rather than taking shots in the dark at random turbo kits online.

really...no PFC even :blink:

..I know adaptronic have just released one....

lol ARTZ you're flogging the Adaptronic more than Stao is.

mods should sticky a turbo Modification guide for R32/R33/R34 so people don't always post up threads asking what turbo to get this XXXkw etc.

We do - The Dyno threads, and the FI Guide have many informative threads for the beginner.

If new users read them once in a while, they would have more options than they could ever wish for.

Anyway - that aside - to the OP I'm guessing the below basically summaries you.

You have a relatively stock car and say a 600hp kit for $3500 and thought that reasonable, I'll buy it and put it on.

Do you even have all the supporting mods like FMIC, Fuel Pump, ECU, Injectors, Clutch, Diff, Oil cooler, Radiator, Coil packs, AFMs, a FULL fluid service from motor, gearbox to diff ???

Well over $7000 without LABOUR!

Then as you've stated you want to hit the circuit you also need to attend to brakes and suspension which in itself will be another $3000+ realistically.

Only once you have done the above should you be thinking about getting more power out of the motor.

The fact you only want to spend $3500 on a 600hp kit is a clear indication you've left out the supporting stuff, as if you had the supporting mods to hit the circuit reliably, you'd have no money left.

A decent 600hp kit cost breakdown would be around this:

6boost Manifold - $1400

Turbo - $1200-$1800

Ex Gate - $550

Dump pipe - $300

Misc: Gaskets, Lines, Heat wrap (and or shield/beanie) etc - $500

So you are looking around $4000 with a $1200 turbo. Make it a GT3076 or similar and the cost closer to $4500 (not incl delivery).

You can go cheaper and get a Kando kit, they are a reasonable piece of gear for the money with proven results now.

Either way don't get a cheap stainless manifold, they are simply more a$$ ache than they are worth with cracking etc. Yes some don't crack, but far too many do. Meaning you'll be paying twice due to excessive labour to fix it all.

yep paranoid, or you could also say that stuff does bugger all... ghost the sys drive and re-format on a scheduled clock from your home server setup once a month... oh what you dont have a home server???

seriously defrag and healths checks are so 12yr old student in 1999 kinda stuff....

Haha that's what I was thinking. Computer "technician"... I wouldn't let anyone near a computer that calls themselves a computer technician.

Anyway back on topic!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...