Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Avoid driving it dude, because lean afrs on cruise can and will burn your exhaust valves.

why would it be lean on cruise? i think your right with any boost it is leaning out, that must be why the light started flashing on mine, or maybe the tune.:whistling:

Here is how the intake was setup when it was stalling.

IMG_3970.jpg

This is how I had it afterwards to fix the stalling. I'm more convinced it was the ripples in the flex pipe than the extra length and bend, obviously had the air filter on for the test, this was taken before I put it on for the sake of the pic :).

IMG_3972.jpg

Its the angle the BOV enters, not the bend that causes the stalling imo. It looked like a nice intake until you ditched the airbox. :thumbsup:

I have to agree with scotty here

You can imagine the BOV just venting and bouncing around in all directions disrupting the flow.

When Scotty designed mine it dumps into the intake on an angle towards the turbo

Yet another thread full of mafia's condescending crap, i hope it makes you feel tough :thumbsup:.

Not really hey, I've seen the AFRs after many of these upgrades and I know for a fact that they run lean and its not advisable to drive them far or at all.

So, dribble your shit elsewhere.

why would it be lean on cruise? i think your right with any boost it is leaning out, that must be why the light started flashing on mine, or maybe the tune.:whistling:

I wondered the same thing, but I've seen it on a few cars.

I'm thinking that at 2,500rpm and above the turbo is spooling a tiny bit, making the air path easier into the motor. Being a bigger turbo, its able to help more air into the engine. Think about it, at those revs, the turbine is spinning at a notable speed. The compressor would be "helping" the air get into the engine easier on vacuum, allowing it to breathe easier.

What had been tuned to 14.5 - 14.7 afrs on cruise, I'd seen go above 15. Also caused the engine to run a little hotter at cruise due to being a little leaner.

Not all but a number of cars.

Oh no not a 5% rise in AFR's, how on earth are the exhaust valves going to survive that. Load is determined by the AFM, unless theres a leak or something else isnt working as it should then its fine to drive normally. Sure the AFR's arent always going to be EXACTLY the same as they were before but your not going to kill your motor by driving it around under light load. It takes AFR's upwards of 17-18:1 to do any damage to valves and pistons under light-medium load and you'd know all about it if it was that lean.

Not really hey, I've seen the AFRs after many of these upgrades and I know for a fact that they run lean and its not advisable to drive them far or at all.

So, dribble your shit elsewhere.

I wondered the same thing, but I've seen it on a few cars.

I'm thinking that at 2,500rpm and above the turbo is spooling a tiny bit, making the air path easier into the motor. Being a bigger turbo, its able to help more air into the engine. Think about it, at those revs, the turbine is spinning at a notable speed. The compressor would be "helping" the air get into the engine easier on vacuum, allowing it to breathe easier.

What had been tuned to 14.5 - 14.7 afrs on cruise, I'd seen go above 15. Also caused the engine to run a little hotter at cruise due to being a little leaner.

Not all but a number of cars.

i agree to this , the engine seems more powerful even without boosting compared to my old highflow i had, and that is significant , and its odd but i think true... and with cams i find it even more noticable..

Edited by SliverS2

Oh no not a 5% rise in AFR's, how on earth are the exhaust valves going to survive that. Load is determined by the AFM, unless theres a leak or something else isnt working as it should then its fine to drive normally. Sure the AFR's arent always going to be EXACTLY the same as they were before but your not going to kill your motor by driving it around under light load. It takes AFR's upwards of 17-18:1 to do any damage to valves and pistons under light-medium load and you'd know all about it if it was that lean.

No worries. So you just take your nose out of your ass shove your nose up the exhaust and have a sniff, and go "Yep, shes safe enough, thats about 16:1"

My whole point - Unless you have a wideband you have NFI. So is it worth the risk.

I've also seen cars cruise fine at 17:1 without a miss. Wonder how those exhaust valves are doing.

Who knows. But nah, she'll be right hey. Just spent $6k on a turbo upgrade, its just money. Who gives a f**k about the engine.

Its ok though, my cars will always be safe. And the people that listen to my advice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...