Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

having an issue with my s15 (sr20det).. no idea where to start :\ similar issues seen with skylines so yeah..

Car is choking while cruising, feels like its going to stall eventually. Was fine all week until Thurs night and then got progressively worse.

Seems worse at 60km/hr or low speed than 80km/hr. If I thrash it, it seems ok..? Maybe?

Maybe a related issue that has been going on for a few weeks is when braking to red light, sometimes the revs drop to about 200, cpl of times it has actually stalled on the freeway in heavy traffic/freeway carpark.

Have looked at every hose (I think), cannot see a vacuum hose off anywhere..

I thought AFM for the choking issue but swapped it yesterday with a friends and no difference.

Plugs were done a few months ago, pulled them out, they seem ok, asked 2 ppl for advice they said they look ok as well..

What else to check?

Another friend said o2 sensor but I think my fuel economy would be shit if it was that.

No idea when the fuel filter was last done as I haven't had this car long, would that be an issue?

Im thinking ignition or fuel at this point but not sure..

Thanks for any help :(

Kaz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397264-car-choking-while-cruising/
Share on other sites

hmm ok the only hoses i havent checked is the FMIC joiners at the bottom.. will check today

I'm in westside melb..

hmm ok well im going to Autobarn to get fuel filter soon...

Gawd at this point it has not been narrowed down, I'm only getting more suggestions lol.. thats helpful but not, at the same time lol :(

I would try fuel filter first also check pump flow a mechanic shop should be able to do this one other thing could be the cat could be blocked. Might be worth putting it on the dyno and removing the exhaust and checking the rest

try a new fuel filter.

is there any kind of EGR (exhaust gas return) on the car? it may be that it needs to be cleaned out. i know that is a common issue with the natro sr20's.

also try unplugging the o2 sensor and seeing what that does.

finally, is the car auto or manual?

changed fuel filter today.. noticeable improvement in driving tonight but not sure if it's fixed it.. will test more tomorrow when going to work.. I suspect not tho it seemed to start faltering a little bit..

EGR.. nfi.

hmm cat blocked.. thats a possibility.. fuuuu so many things to check :(

need to borrow consult and see what it says.. tho from prev experience (180/r32) it usually has no faults lol, so may prove worthless..

did you clean the POD filter recently? i used a k&N recharge kit on mine once and applied to much oil which in turn stufed my MAF sensor give it a good clean with crc MAF cleaner and see how it goes i took it to 5 different mechanics wasted money on CAS coils Ignitor fuel pump then to find it was the MAF

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...