Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

3000 RPM = 85 HP

3500 RPM = 120 HP

4000 RPM = 160 HP

4500 RPM = 240 HP

5000 RPM = 415 ish HP

5500 RPM = 470 ish HP

6000 RPM = 545 HP

6500 RPM = 610 HP

7000 RPM = 660 HP

7500 RPM = 700 HP

7900 RPM or so = 733 HP

* Going off the brown line

240hp at 4500rpm.....wouldn't want to be taking this thing through many tight twisty roads or traffic. It would feel like a sling shot when it comes on though no doubt. The real shocker is 3000rpm, my stock 10 year old commodore makes more than that at 3000rpm, so just cruising around town this GTR at least in my case would be way too laggy.

Sure the final number is great, about 542rwkw, but for anything other than drag racing, more area under the curve is needed.

Area under the curve doesn't impress most people though compared to a big number, so not a lot of people care which is a shame

Rhe commodore has another 1000cc capacity though

No 2.8l low compression motor that is designed to rev hard is going to be exciting at 3000rpm. Especially when it has big cams etc

Yeah fair enough but also it's a POS and has no turbo.

Anyway, I'm not trying to put this result down or anything, just IMO it doesn't seem to be a very usable car around town. Who knows, the owner may just love revving the shit out of it and good on him cause above 5500rpm it would be moving bigtime and would leave my GTR for dead in a straight line.

FYI Paul makes 201rwhp at 3000rpm, 270 cams, 2.8 etc which is close enough to 2.3 times the power. So yeah has certainly be done.

True!

My 33 made peak torque at 3000rpm can't remember the figure power wise though wouldve been around the 110-120kw range, was a straight line upto 6500rpm :D

Much nicer than the 1j lol

I guess it could also be that if a fast ramp rate was used it would push the curve to the right and make it look laggier than what it is

If you were 'cruising around town' then you wouldn't need to accelerate...so 4th gear at 70KM/H would be fine with low power. And if you did want to accelerate, then simply put it into 2nd (and right into its power band).

Although, I would have to agree that any twisties and it would make a much bigger difference. It's horses for courses.

And yes, zebra, a dyno run may not accurately reflect on-road performance for various reasons - they are really more of a tuning tool.

haha my gtr makes about 65hp at 3000rpm an bout 290hp 5000rpm an only makes 420hp atw 7800rpm pretty sure my car didnt make 100hp at 3000rpm even stocklol if

i wanted low down grunt i'd buy a falcon... but only reving to 6-6.5k? thats a bit gay lol

hmm stroking the engine is on the verge of cheating lol an if ur gunna stroke it why not go an rb30/26... then why not get a 3.2L stroker kit for it... or why not go one step bigger again an u got a 4l falcon engine lol or i did see a gtr with a gen III v8 under the hood with a cpl turbo's hanging off it lol each to their own. an yes in town i would swap for a stroked engine very quickly, as its rather hard to give it 60% a bit at the lights, its either a full on launch or 4wd diesels can beat me if i idle off lol an thats a little embarressing :blush:

240hp at 4500rpm.....wouldn't want to be taking this thing through many tight twisty roads or traffic. It would feel like a sling shot when it comes on though no doubt. The real shocker is 3000rpm, my stock 10 year old commodore makes more than that at 3000rpm, so just cruising around town this GTR at least in my case would be way too laggy.

Sure the final number is great, about 542rwkw, but for anything other than drag racing, more area under the curve is needed.

Area under the curve doesn't impress most people though compared to a big number, so not a lot of people care which is a shame

You need to come for a drive with me Steveo :)

240hp at 4500rpm.....wouldn't want to be taking this thing through many tight twisty roads or traffic. It would feel like a sling shot when it comes on though no doubt. The real shocker is 3000rpm, my stock 10 year old commodore makes more than that at 3000rpm, so just cruising around town this GTR at least in my case would be way too laggy.

Sure the final number is great, about 542rwkw, but for anything other than drag racing, more area under the curve is needed.

Area under the curve doesn't impress most people though compared to a big number, so not a lot of people care which is a shame

if you can't drive a car with a 3500RPM powerband you need to stick with your stock commie lol, plenty of fun to be had, just need to know how to change down gears.

you can't compare 3000rpm in a car which is limited at like 6500rpm, and is useless above about 5000, to a car that revs to 8000rpm and has torque to the limiter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...