Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just like to know what turbos you people have in your skylines? What do you think is the best low-mount turbo for a rb25det. I have been told the best for a street application would be the HKS GT2535. What are your oppinions? Does this turbo bolt straight on, if not what do i have to do to get it in? Looking forward to your reply's. Thanks!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39741-aftermarket-turbos/
Share on other sites

hrmm, i think either one is sufficient for the amount of power you want to make... i would consult a turbo specialist on what the best turbo set up for your price range is.

i am just talking from experience with my friends Hiflowed T3, that worked a treat.

Hopefully someone with a 2535 will comment on that turbo and its advantages! =)

I have an HKS 2535. Just got it put on. Had fuelling problems when i went to the dyno so couldn't wind past 7psi but was getting 180rwkw at that boost level. Have just received my adjustable fuel pressure regulator and expecting a Z32 AFM and will post results when i get them. I have wound the boost up to 1.1 bar and it hits that by 3,300 rpm and pulls very nicely indeed. I hit boost cut at 1.15 bar at about 4,000rpm the other day which is my airflow meter maxing out at 5v which on an R33 happens about 220rwkw so this turbo should easily see you to your desired power level.

As for installation, it bolts straight on to your exhaust manifold, dump pipe, AFM pipe and with the supplied elbow, to your intercooler pipe too. I got the GT Sports Turbine Kit which came with braided hose for the oil line and new replacement piping for the water lines. Hope that helps.

oh, you wanted mods too...

When I finally get my power run again I will have:

Trust FMIC, Z32 AFM, Bosch 910 fuel pump, Nismo adjustable FPR, full exhaust, Trust Ex Cam Gear, S-AFCII, Blitz EBC and rebuilt engine with forged pistons.

you should be fine, so long as your engine has sufficient compression and when your running 12psi it isnt leaning out/detonating etc...

invest in a dyno tune from somewhere that is renouned for tuning properly.

Reliability is the key!

Nothing sh1ts me more than when someone tells me they have 200+ rwkw and have their standard injectors maxed out etc etc. Thats just not cricket.

Reliability is the key!

Nothing sh1ts me more than when someone tells me they have 200+ rwkw and have their standard injectors maxed out etc etc.  Thats just not cricket.

Exactly!!! I will have a power FC so as far as that goes it can be tuned accordingly. I hate when i go to shops (no names) and the guys there tell me that i can get easily 270 rwkw from my standard engine without problems. I think that is total crap! Can do it but it will probably last about 2 months or so, then the problems will arise. Anyone here have that kind of power with standard internals? Just like to hear about it?

i am attempting to put on a t3/t4-super t 70 on mine all i can say it is ***ing huge 1700 it cost brand newcop a look at the specs.....shaft and wheel trim64.5 mm -compressor wheel super70 60.5mm -turbine housinga/r84.-compressor housinga/rratio.70... supposed to be capable of 650 hp can any one who knows what they are doing tell me the go and what mods/ lag ect i will expect

I hate when i go to shops (no names) and the guys there tell me that i can get easily 270 rwkw from my standard engine without problems. I think that is total crap! Can do it but it will probably last about 2 months or so, then the problems will arise. Anyone here have that kind of power with standard internals? Just like to hear about it?

Your engine will last with 270rwkw on standard internals, I know of several cars that have lasted over 6mths each after being very heavily murdered with much more than 270rwkw. It all depends on your tune :rant:

Guest INASNT
Your engine will last with 270rwkw on standard internals, I know of several cars that have lasted over 6mths each after being very heavily murdered with much more than 270rwkw. It all depends on your tune :)

It depends on the tune and how u drive. If u drive like a tool all the time at full throttle then ur engine wont live long.

Mine has lived with over 300rwkw high boost and 260rwkw low boost for about 2 months now without any problems.

Fuel seems to be the problem IMHO. Alot of people try and stretch the stock injectors to places they just werent meant to go. All that I know of who upgrade the injectors and dont chase every last kw, have had no dramas.

Personally I wouldnt really want to chance it (well I didnt chance it). If you upgrade the injectors as you fit a bigger turbo you will be safe - with a good tune. Cheaper than a rebuild - infact cheaper than a set of forgies:)

I have over 300 in a daily driven RB25, running over 20psi no problems - stock internals. the JMS R33 had over 300rwkw with stock bottom end too, and that gets caned - still going strong.

I want to do everything properly, no short cuts. What would be the best size injectors for this application? Where do you suggest to get the car tuned at? I heard that Croydon Racing is the best but they charge an arm and a leg! I think it was like $700! Any other good places?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...