Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just like to know what turbos you people have in your skylines? What do you think is the best low-mount turbo for a rb25det. I have been told the best for a street application would be the HKS GT2535. What are your oppinions? Does this turbo bolt straight on, if not what do i have to do to get it in? Looking forward to your reply's. Thanks!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39741-aftermarket-turbos/
Share on other sites

hrmm, i think either one is sufficient for the amount of power you want to make... i would consult a turbo specialist on what the best turbo set up for your price range is.

i am just talking from experience with my friends Hiflowed T3, that worked a treat.

Hopefully someone with a 2535 will comment on that turbo and its advantages! =)

I have an HKS 2535. Just got it put on. Had fuelling problems when i went to the dyno so couldn't wind past 7psi but was getting 180rwkw at that boost level. Have just received my adjustable fuel pressure regulator and expecting a Z32 AFM and will post results when i get them. I have wound the boost up to 1.1 bar and it hits that by 3,300 rpm and pulls very nicely indeed. I hit boost cut at 1.15 bar at about 4,000rpm the other day which is my airflow meter maxing out at 5v which on an R33 happens about 220rwkw so this turbo should easily see you to your desired power level.

As for installation, it bolts straight on to your exhaust manifold, dump pipe, AFM pipe and with the supplied elbow, to your intercooler pipe too. I got the GT Sports Turbine Kit which came with braided hose for the oil line and new replacement piping for the water lines. Hope that helps.

oh, you wanted mods too...

When I finally get my power run again I will have:

Trust FMIC, Z32 AFM, Bosch 910 fuel pump, Nismo adjustable FPR, full exhaust, Trust Ex Cam Gear, S-AFCII, Blitz EBC and rebuilt engine with forged pistons.

you should be fine, so long as your engine has sufficient compression and when your running 12psi it isnt leaning out/detonating etc...

invest in a dyno tune from somewhere that is renouned for tuning properly.

Reliability is the key!

Nothing sh1ts me more than when someone tells me they have 200+ rwkw and have their standard injectors maxed out etc etc. Thats just not cricket.

Reliability is the key!

Nothing sh1ts me more than when someone tells me they have 200+ rwkw and have their standard injectors maxed out etc etc.  Thats just not cricket.

Exactly!!! I will have a power FC so as far as that goes it can be tuned accordingly. I hate when i go to shops (no names) and the guys there tell me that i can get easily 270 rwkw from my standard engine without problems. I think that is total crap! Can do it but it will probably last about 2 months or so, then the problems will arise. Anyone here have that kind of power with standard internals? Just like to hear about it?

i am attempting to put on a t3/t4-super t 70 on mine all i can say it is ***ing huge 1700 it cost brand newcop a look at the specs.....shaft and wheel trim64.5 mm -compressor wheel super70 60.5mm -turbine housinga/r84.-compressor housinga/rratio.70... supposed to be capable of 650 hp can any one who knows what they are doing tell me the go and what mods/ lag ect i will expect

I hate when i go to shops (no names) and the guys there tell me that i can get easily 270 rwkw from my standard engine without problems. I think that is total crap! Can do it but it will probably last about 2 months or so, then the problems will arise. Anyone here have that kind of power with standard internals? Just like to hear about it?

Your engine will last with 270rwkw on standard internals, I know of several cars that have lasted over 6mths each after being very heavily murdered with much more than 270rwkw. It all depends on your tune :rant:

Guest INASNT
Your engine will last with 270rwkw on standard internals, I know of several cars that have lasted over 6mths each after being very heavily murdered with much more than 270rwkw. It all depends on your tune :)

It depends on the tune and how u drive. If u drive like a tool all the time at full throttle then ur engine wont live long.

Mine has lived with over 300rwkw high boost and 260rwkw low boost for about 2 months now without any problems.

Fuel seems to be the problem IMHO. Alot of people try and stretch the stock injectors to places they just werent meant to go. All that I know of who upgrade the injectors and dont chase every last kw, have had no dramas.

Personally I wouldnt really want to chance it (well I didnt chance it). If you upgrade the injectors as you fit a bigger turbo you will be safe - with a good tune. Cheaper than a rebuild - infact cheaper than a set of forgies:)

I have over 300 in a daily driven RB25, running over 20psi no problems - stock internals. the JMS R33 had over 300rwkw with stock bottom end too, and that gets caned - still going strong.

I want to do everything properly, no short cuts. What would be the best size injectors for this application? Where do you suggest to get the car tuned at? I heard that Croydon Racing is the best but they charge an arm and a leg! I think it was like $700! Any other good places?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...