Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mid 9. No farken way. It too heavy... I reckon a mid 10 with my rookie piloting skills....

Time for diet.....carbon doors, boot, lexan windows, rip interior out and go on Jenny Craig diet Paul :D

Stock R33 GTR weight is around 1550KG. Add driver, fuel etc and that will be at around 1700kg. This would equate to mid 10's @130+ MPH going by the calcs. However, I personally think that it will go faster and well into the 130's TS if Paul can get it to launch.

Guess there is only one way to find out, Paul ;)

Time to go practice your GTR launches :D

Stock R33 GTR weight is around 1550KG. Add driver, fuel etc and that will be at around 1700kg. This would equate to mid 10's @130+ MPH going by the calcs. However, I personally think that it will go faster and well into the 130's TS if Paul can get it to launch.

Guess there is only one way to find out, Paul ;)

Time to go practice your GTR launches :D

Look IMO mid 10's is ridiculously fast for a road car and I would be thrilled with those numbers.

Anything faster than that will create more stress on drive shafts, gearbox, engine longevity (maybe)....in other words, shit will start to break.

Something I would want to avoid and no doubt Paul would too.

Edited by Ants

It WILL be well into the high 130mph and low 10's

If my RWD boat could do a 11.080 @134 mph a 4WD with the power that his has will love that shit.

How many runs till he gets booted for doing 10's is the real $64,000 question.

I will bet a coffee on the third run, 1st will be a nice easy take off and shake out, 2nd will be with a bit of boost backing off at half track, 3rd will be BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATSHBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATSBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATSBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Tell me when its on and I will be there with bells on, I will even bring the Ford and race them for coffee and/or donuts.

Disclaimer: In a 150ishkw taxi I will only race for reaction time

Paul whats going on ?? Your knuckles starting to drag along the ground ?? :mrt: :mrt:

Jeez if you wanted to go dragging I could have got you the 1500HP drag head made up , same specs as the HKS Drag 33 before cams etc.

Harmless plug !!

"If anyone wants one of these heads like Paul or I have send me pm as old mate has quit HKS and is now doing freelance custom engine builds in Japan.

With current exchange rates and ability to pay for everything direct in Japan, now is very affordable time to get something very special made..."

Paul I can delete this if you want just let me know.

But how will a 1500hp car go doing cruises, hill climbs, circuit days, TEXI and such.<br /><br />Pauls car should/will be a excellent all-rounder.<br /><br />And unlike the other 95% of big power Skylines out there I dare say it will be used in anger on the black stuff, and I don't mean boosting on the public roads.

Look IMO mid 10's is ridiculously fast for a road car and I would be thrilled with those numbers.

Anything faster than that will create more stress on drive shafts, gearbox, engine longevity (maybe)....in other words, shit will start to break.

Something I would want to avoid and no doubt Paul would too.

I agree with u 100% with regards to longevity. I had a friend build a JUN rb26 and that required a routine pulldown and rebuild every 5000km...that is nuts (belted out 650kw)

But how will a 1500hp car go doing cruises, hill climbs, circuit days, TEXI and such.<br /><br />Pauls car should/will be a excellent all-rounder.<br /><br />And unlike the other 95% of big power Skylines out there I dare say it will be used in anger on the black stuff, and I don't mean boosting on the public roads.

Thats my point !!

I got the head done for Paul in Japan specifically for the power and response he wanted , then throw in yavuz's bit of magic , when he gets it to the track thats where the animal will perform.

1500hp head is pure drag head only.

There's a spec 2 version of Pauls head which can be built but is purely for track car as would be a pig in traffic as a daily.

Paul whats going on ?? Your knuckles starting to drag along the ground ?? :mrt: :mrt:

Jeez if you wanted to go dragging I could have got you the 1500HP drag head made up , same specs as the HKS Drag 33 before cams etc.

Harmless plug !!

"If anyone wants one of these heads like Paul or I have send me pm as old mate has quit HKS and is now doing freelance custom engine builds in Japan.

With current exchange rates and ability to pay for everything direct in Japan, now is very affordable time to get something very special made..."

Paul I can delete this if you want just let me know.

Haha. Nah Marcus, it's all good :D

What rear diff are you going to run? A queef one like the front one? :)

I was looking at the Quiafe rear (which has JUST been released for GTR's only in the last 2-3 months) but I decided to go the Nismo GT PRO. Thanks Marcus ;)

Thats my point !!

I got the head done for Paul in Japan specifically for the power and response he wanted , then throw in yavuz's bit of magic and when he gets it to the track thats where the animal will perform.

1500hp head is pure drag head only.

There's a spec 2 version of Pauls head which ican be built but is purely for track car as would be a pig in traffic as a daily.

Is that the one with both the intake and exhaust squish pads removed? I wonder what it would have been like if we left both pads in?!?!

I agree with u 100% with regards to longevity. I had a friend build a JUN rb26 and that required a routine pulldown and rebuild every 5000km...that is nuts (belted out 650kw)

True, but there must be other factors in engine longevity than JUST power alone. Tune is obvious, but I make peak power at 6500. That just means I don't need to rev the guts out of it. Thats lower than the factory peak power of 6800 RPM!

True, but there must be other factors in engine longevity than JUST power alone. Tune is obvious, but I make peak power at 6500. That just means I don't need to rev the guts out of it. Thats lower than the factory peak power of 6800 RPM!

Agree.

However when your at the track 7-8k rpm is going to be really tempting.

Agree.

However when your at the track 7-8k rpm is going to be really tempting.

Not with so much area under the curve. I found that at Winton just after I went from GT RS's to -5's. 6-6500 RPM and grab the next gear.

Not with so much area under the curve. I found that at Winton just after I went from GT RS's to -5's. 6-6500 RPM and grab the next gear.

Have you got a graph with the torque curve?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...