Jump to content
SAU Community

Piglet's Rebuild Of His Busted Tomei 2.8

Piggaz
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Piggaz
Piggaz

Car is finally booked into Insight on the 19th of April for the ECU, fuel system and sensor wire in plus the tune. Thats the good news. The bad news is that V-cam aint gonna fit with my pistons and ho

Piggaz
Piggaz

Small update.... ITS RUNNING. Fired first go! Smells like burnt dust apparently .

Piggaz
Piggaz

A 9174 would just make the EGP pressure issue worse and in my mind it seems like a bit of a GT RS shit going on. Not that it's horrendously bad (It wouldn't be no twin buttplug pressures), That's NOT

Posted Images

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Don't swear at me, Mark :P

LOL

On the serious side though, I am looking at something like this with a slush box, I almost got a old WB Statesman a couple of weeks ago, it was a right mess but the body was sound, I tried to low ball, waited to long and missed out.

I'm really frustrated, trying to find something to build is proving to be extremely problematic.

I want something with some punch and grumble but very low maintenance, hence lazy big ci 8 with auto, but finding something to suit is breaking my balls.

Initial purchase is the problem, I only have a small budget for the initial outlay (the minister of war and finances is fairly strict on this), my plan is to buy the car then strip and rebuild it, then when I am in the good books and funds allow get some bits to make it go (all parts shipped to work and then hidden under a blanket in the garage of course).

My plan is to have a regoed, loud, low, and angry cruiser that will fit me, the minister and 3 psychotic teenagers in(and of course go fast in a straight line).

The way I'm going though the kids will have already left home before I get something in the garage to start on.

But while there is life there is hope.....

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

LOL

On the serious side though, I am looking at something like this with a slush box, I almost got a old WB Statesman a couple of weeks ago, it was a right mess but the body was sound, I tried to low ball, waited to long and missed out.

I'm really frustrated, trying to find something to build is proving to be extremely problematic.

I want something with some punch and grumble but very low maintenance, hence lazy big ci 8 with auto, but finding something to suit is breaking my balls.

Initial purchase is the problem, I only have a small budget for the initial outlay (the minister of war and finances is fairly strict on this), my plan is to buy the car then strip and rebuild it, then when I am in the good books and funds allow get some bits to make it go (all parts shipped to work and then hidden under a blanket in the garage of course).

My plan is to have a regoed, loud, low, and angry cruiser that will fit me, the minister and 3 psychotic teenagers in(and of course go fast in a straight line).

The way I'm going though the kids will have already left home before I get something in the garage to start on.

But while there is life there is hope.....

R34 GTR with a RB 30 and a big single. 4 inch exhaust and a decent suspension setup.

Loud, low and tough....

Purchase price just doesn't quite tick the box. 3 out of 4 is pretty good, yeah? :D

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

R34 GTR with a RB 30 and a big single. 4 inch exhaust and a decent suspension setup.

Loud, low and tough....

Purchase price just doesn't quite tick the box. 3 out of 4 is pretty good, yeah? :D

I think the 3 kids would be upset with having to have their legs and heads removed to allow fitment, plus I'm off fuel injection and turbo's and stuff.

I want a car with the biggest motor that I can fit in and what I can tune with a small screw driver and timing light.

Getting back to my roots if you know what I mean, read: old school bogan.....

  • Like 1
Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted

That 572 crate motor sounds tough.

Lol mlr at your commentary with minister aand 3 psychotic kids as I now have 3...I feel your joy and pain.

I have actually had parts delivered to work and hidden at home, I thought I was getting soft but now I know it's socially acceptable :)

Life is too short so just do it (thanks Nike, greatest slogan ever)

Joshbigt62r Proficient

Joshbigt62r

Posted
Posted

R34 GTR with a RB 30 and a big single. 4 inch exhaust and a decent suspension setup.

Loud, low and tough....

^^^ ah ha I like those thoughts piggaz :)

Purchase price just doesn't quite tick the box. 3 out of 4 is pretty good, yeah? :D

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

That 572 crate motor sounds tough.

Lol mlr at your commentary with minister aand 3 psychotic kids as I now have 3...I feel your joy and pain.

I have actually had parts delivered to work and hidden at home, I thought I was getting soft but now I know it's socially acceptable :)

Life is too short so just do it (thanks Nike, greatest slogan ever)

Um, I do it too.... God we're a pack of selfish pricks aren't we!!?? Wives really are out to ruin our lives however. The Aussie Post guy at work knows me by first name he brings in so many parcels for me!

  • 2 months later...
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So what's the verdict on the gearbox Paul? And I see you were running treacle thick oil with the Quaife front diff? How did that go, they only recommend 75W90 for it?

The car hasn't moved in a few months. It's been washed and detailed then put in it's naughty corner.

The box I've decided on a PPG 1-4 helical dog with an OS 5th gear instead of the standard one. I'm a little concerned that if I ever head down to Philip Island I might strip 5th being so over driven. I'll also be using the larger input shaft which does mean clutch modification.

As for the oil, that was Terry at Award diff and gearbox recommendation. He uses it in all his diffs that are likely to see track work. Seem's fine to me. It definitely shut the clunky Nismo GT PRO up, that's for sure.

Sub Boy32 Rising Star

Sub Boy32

Posted
Posted

Will be interested to hear what you think of the PPG gear set, I know you are not keen of a seq gearbox, but that is next on my list, there is a German guy who makes TTI 6spd boxes in Nelson (about 4hrs from me) so we are looking to adapt a transfer case to one.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

A little bit of an update here.

Tomorrow it goes in to get the front bar resprayed, the rear pods redone after they got hammered at the 2012 Nationals the boot sprayed white and it all stitch welded up.

Now, my car being a Series 3 has a few little features the earlier models didn't and not many know about. There are 4 holes in the boot which have bolts going down into the chassis rails. The R34 GTR and S 15's have a bar which link these 4 points up. I got an S15 brace for $50 from skyline spares.

20E4D255-37BB-41BE-BE8D-A8F0227893A1_zps

I'll rub it back and paint it up.

Here it is inside a 33 GTR.

2BE779D2-DD9D-496B-B08E-680B6482DE35_zps

I also bought one of these. Nagisa Auto "Gacchiri Support"

E6863B03-BB50-4A17-B141-307B15334716_zps

4C327ED1-EBD4-4430-85F9-33EB7C77E5EA_zps

That obviously needs the front guards taken off. See if I notice anything.

  • Like 2
XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

Is your missus a race car driver?? :P

Not a race car driver.... just a very racey blond :wub:

I would consider her quiet a good driver, but isn't particularly familiar with race gearboxes, race clutches or race cars.

:woot: J.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...